Trekking the Annapurnas on a Shoestring...
In July this year, while Nepal was still recovering from the most devastating earthquake in it's history, we decided to trek the moderately arduous but well-worn Annapurna Circuit; one of the most loved, most trekked and most challenging routes in the Nepalese Himalayas.
It was also monsoon season.
We were also on a shoestring budget.
What could possibly go wrong?
Where to begin? Before we even arrived in Nepal, at the end of June 2015, me and Oscar had already decided that we were set on trekking the Annapurna Circuit.
Then, while we were still in North India, the earthquake struck. And it was bad - so bad, in fact, that the majority of Indian media outlets had pretty much relegated Nepal to the realms of near extinction. But we remained undeterred. We asked backpackers and trekkers arriving in to India from Nepal what they thought.
They almost unanimously said go.
So we had to go. We had to continue our trip, as planned.
While I'm all for well intentioned so-called "voluntourism", we had already pretty much decided that a couple of weeks of building houses or volunteering in an orphanage or such like wasn't actually going to be that useful for the people of Nepal, for various reasons that it is not necessary to recant here.
In fact, what Nepal needed - and still needs - is for tourists to return. The economy, which is largely built on outdoor pursuits, has taken a huge battering in recent months and the entire infrastructure of this country has been unjustly affected. The majority of trekking routes are completely stable - but have been completely abandoned. Cities like Pokhara barely saw a single brick out of place, but were almost immediately deserted by everyone but the locals and a few gap years voluntourists.
After arriving overland from India, Pokhara was our first destination in Nepal. Neither of us particularly knew what to expect. Disaster zone? Refugee camp? Rubble? In fact what we were met with was nothing of the sort. Like I said - there as barely a brick out of place. The only untoward thing we could see was a distinct lack of tourists. Okay, so that was in part due to the imminent onset of the July monsoon - but nonetheless, there was a distinct lack of people. Hotels were empty, restaurants were empty, trekking shops were empty; the whole tourist area of the city centred around Fewa Lake was like a ghost town.
After a few days adjusting to a new type of monsoon (the Delhi monsoon just about killed both of us) and hanging out in the hospitals and pharmacies of Pokhara trying to help Oscar rid himself of the very nasty bout of food poisoning he picked up in Delhi, we decided it was time to prepare for the trek. 14 days circumnavigating the Annapurna Circuit. 200 kms walking, starting in the village of Besi Sahar (820 meters altitude) and peaking at a staggering 5,416 meters at the Thorong-La Pass - the world´s highest mountain pass - before descending in to the magical and mythical Mustang region, following the route of the mighty Kali Gandaki River.
Pokhara is a great base for trekkers. It offers a glut of trekking and climbing supply shops and expedition and trekking agencies. There is quite literally something for every type of trekker, whether you are a novice or a professional. The equipment on offer varies from shoddy imitations of branded goods, to remarkably good copies, to the real deal. Every budget is catered for.
And if you are unconfident about embarking on the trek solo (or rather, unguided and sans Sherpa), you can sign up to be herded about and have your bags carried for you.
Me and Oscar decided that we were going rogue. No Sherpas, no tour guides, no schedule. Just the two of us, a map and the mountains.
After obtaining our permits (ACAP and TIMS, both vital or you will not be allowed to trek - more on getting these and costs at the bottom), we practically sprinted around Pokhara buying supplies.
What do you need for 2 weeks trekking in Nepal during the monsoon?
If you're carrying your own bags, pack light. In reality, you need half of what you think you need. Economy is key. I took a small day-pack with me, with about 8 kilos of gear, while Oscar took a slightly larger bag with about 10 kilos of gear. Not much for 2 weeks, when you consider we also opted to cook our own food en-route. Here is a summary of the basics required...
⦁ Good hiking boots. Preferably with ankle support. You'll be living in these for the best part of a fortnight.
⦁ Lightweight mountain pants. You're going to need ones that keep you cool and fresh in the often unbearable monsoon heat, but that also dry pretty quickly. Downpours are torrential ( and I can say this with gravitas because I live in Scotland!)
⦁ A baseball cap, or hat. I cannot stress this one enough. My only regret was not taking one. Schoolboy error. The sun is very, very strong and I could often feel my skin actually blistering, even with SPF 50.
⦁ SPF 50 +. Ditto the above. A vital part of your kit. Slather it on every day - and try to avoid cheap generic brands. They don't work. My red raw peeling nose was a testament to that.
⦁ Packable rain jacket. We bought super-fashionable and super sexy rain ponchos, big enough to cover us and our backpacks, but small enough to pack away in to a tiny space.
⦁ 1 litre water bottle, and packs of water purification pills. Refill your water along the way at the designated stations, or fill up from rivers and waterfalls and pop a purification pill in the bottle. Save money (pre-packaged water is ridiculously expensive en-route) and save the environment. No one wants to see another plastic bottle bobbing about the Himalayas. There are cheap refill points available at villages en-route, and at altitudes of over 3000 meters its safe and delicious to fill your bottle from the plentiful waterfalls en route. Alternatively, water purification tablets can be picked up in Pokhara for as little as Rs40 for a package of 10. Otherwise, mineral water will cost you almost 10 times the regular retail price. Plastic pollution is also a blight, even in the highest of the Himalayas. Your mantra while trekking should be along the lines of “leave nothing but a footprint.” It´s a no-brainer!
⦁ Walking poles. Not so much for the way up as for the way down. My knees wouldn't have survived the descent from Thorong-La to Mukthinath without at least one.
⦁ A few warm clothes. It may be monsoon and therefore a hot and humid, but you may actually still encounter some freak weather - snow storms and the like. Don't get caught out. Take a light scarf, some gloves, cost socks and a some thermal baselayers.
⦁ Snacks. Of course you can buy snacks en route but at vastly vastly inflated prices. You may want to think about taking a decent amount of food supplies with you. Snickers, granola bars, nuts etc. Most of the weight in our backpacks was in food supplies, not in equipment. We actually took our own small pot and camping gas/diffuser set with us too, so that we could cook our own breakfasts. I took a bag of porrige oats and a jar of honey and that was me set for 2 weeks. Oscar took pasta and some tortilla wraps, and bought veggies and other ingredients in the villages along the way. If you are a strict and pretty tight budget like we were this is a great way to save money - the cost of meals along the way is pretty steep. Think Rs300 for a basic bowl of porridge. The entire 1kg bag I bought cost less a fraction of the price, and last more than 2 weeks.
⦁ Toilet paper. If you use it, take your own.
⦁ Medical supplies. Anything you need, take it with you. There are a few clinics and health centres on the way but they are only supplied with the basics, and given that we trekked in the off-season, may not eve be open.
⦁ Toiletries. Seriously, you only need the bare minimum. Shampoo (we took sachets to lighten the load), deodorant, plasters/blister pads, SPF, small first aid kit, toilet paper, insect repellent, laundry soap bar. Anything else is a waste of space.
⦁ Clothes Pegs. A few of these are useful for hanging up clothes overnight. I only took one pair of trousers, 2 t shirts, some pyjamas and a limited selection of underwear. Most of it either got wet or saturated with humidity and had to be hung out to dry every night.
⦁ Garlic. It helps with altitude sickness.
⦁ Torch. It gets pretty dark and power cuts are common.
⦁ Swiss Army Knife. I barely leave my house without it.
⦁ Carabiner Clips. Universally useful.
⦁ I-pod/book/journal/playing cards/camera etc. Something to occupy you when you're not trekking
⦁ Salt. For the leeches... Seriously. It's monsoon and they are out in force.
And that's it. Along with some cash, ID, a decent map and the permits, this is it. Vamonos!
DAY 1 - Besi Sahar - Bahundanda. 17 kms
Our first days on the trek were a real mixed bag. Day 1 was actually a lot duller than I expected. The real jaw-dropping landscapes and mountain vistas don't appear until a good few days in to the trek. The first 2-3 days are spent hiking on a dirt road, though rice terraces and are mostly pretty forgettable in terms of being challenging or remarkable. Or at least they would be had I not been struck with the most chronic and hideous bout of food poisoning I think I've ever experienced before. Most likely caused by a bad egg procured in Besi Sahar....
By the end of day 1 I am in tears; an emotional and physical wreck, crippled by the agony one bad, bad egg. We've already walked for 6 hours and reached the first stop-off village to bed down for the night, but I'm having doubts about whether I'll be able to carry on. I'm hopeful that a good sleep and some rest will cure me...
Accommodation along the way is simple, usually in the form of tea-houses or guest houses which offer basic rooms - price dependent on the season of course. In high season expect to pay upwards of 300 Rs per room. In low season, rooms are often a quarter of the cost - or even free, if you agree to eat at least 1 meal in your chosen place. We find a basic room for night and crash out before 8 pm, listening to the gathering thunderstorm in the distance - and in my belly.
ACCOMMODTION (Hotel Kalika) - Rs100 each
FOOD/DRINKS - Rs 275 each
DAY 2 - Bahundada - Jagat. 8 kms :-(
Day 2 offers absolutely no improvement whatsoever. I feel worse than before, but we know that we have to progress on the trek. We've only been walking for a day - there's no way either of us want to be held up right now, regardless of how I am feeling.
By midday I've had to dive in to bushes around 12 times to purge the evil out from my system, and I'm almost completely dependent on my walking pole to keep me upright. Energy low, fluid low, no appetite, sweaty mess. It's horribly humid, I'm beyond boiled and formulating plots to leave; to find a jeep to get me back to Pokhara. But that's going to cost - and not just pocket change. I'm not ready to fork out my dignity, pride and a significant pile of cash on bailing after one day.
Thankfully Oscar - who had just been in the local hospital receiving treatment for severe food poisoning - still had a stash of antibiotics on him. I take one of everything, and then an extra one for good measure in the hope that it kills whatever poison is lurking inside. ACCOMMODATION (Mont Blanc Guesthouse) - Rs 50 each
FOOD/DRINKS - Rs 200 each
DAY 3 - Jagat - Dharapani. 15 kms
...And the antibiotics have take effect! I feel significantly better. The landscape is improving with every kilometer, despite the rain and low cloud. As well as encountering a massive field of ganga to hike through, my legs are besieged by leeches (a veritable bloodbath and full on panic ensues), and we encounter a truly massive and very dangerous landslide that we are forced to climb over.
ACCOMMODATION (New Tibet Guest House) Rs 75 each
FOOD/DRINKS - Rs 360 each
DAY 4 - Dharapani to Chame. 16 kms
We've finally left the humidity of the rice terraces and are trekking through forest. We've also increased the altitude - which means no more leeches. Thank god!
ACCOMMODATION (Namo Buddha Guest House) Rs 50 each
FOOD/DRINKS - Rs 300 each
DAY 5 - Chame to Gyarhu. 19 kms
The first 13 kilometers were pretty easy but after this, it got a little trickier. We decide to take an alternative route to Gyarhu, a village quite literally at the very top of a steep hill. The last hour hiking up was extremely tough - it's steep and the thin air is taking its toll. Sunburn is becoming an issue - factor 50 just isn't cutting it! The village is incredible; quaint, quiet and covered with wild berries, mint and yak bones. And it has astounding views of Annuapurna II, Annapurna III and the Gangapurna, especially from the prayer flags at the edge of the mountain. This village is unmissable!
ACCOMMODATION (Yak Ru Guest House) - Rs 25 each
FOOD/DRINKS - Rs 300 each. We also spent an additional Rs250 on some damn fine yak cheese. Nothing worse than a dry cracker!
Day 6 - Gyarhu - Manang. 15 kms
An easy start to the day, with a nice 4 hour descent from Ghyaru. Beautiful villages en-route to Manang. Even Manang - the last "big" village before the Thorong-La pass is nice- a good place to restock for the challenge ahead, and acclimatise to the high altitude. It's advisable to spend 2 nights here to allow your body to fully acclimatise, but as we arrived pretty much straight from Ladakh in North India, we were well acclimatised and didn't feel the need to stop.
Small shops, a medical centre, some 'cinemas' (in the season) and a glut of accommodation available. Possibly the last village where hot water is available for free - but only by the bucket. So wash and do laundry here, or live to regret it!
ACCOMMODATION (Glacier Dome Lodge) - Rs 50 each
FOOD/DRINK - Rs 300 each. We also had to pay to charge electronics here - this is pretty common so high up. It was Rs50 to charge a battery back to full.
DAY 7 - Manang - Thorong High Camp. 17 kms
A very tough and very wet 17 kms. I was sure that we'd have encountered the fabled "rain shadow" by now, but sadly not. We started the day at 3,450 meters in altitude in Manang, and finished at 4,925 meters, at High Camp. The landscape is remarkable and we can hear the mountains echoing around us; moving and talking. We see Himalayan Blue Sheep, some eagles and a few foxes as we ascend to high camp. It's a dangerous path, plagued with landslides, and every footstep is critical. I'm even afraid to speak to loudly in case something is triggered.
The last hour climbing is so hard, the route is incredible steep and pretty treacherous. Calves on fire. High Camp is a collection of freezing cold huts, pretty much on top of the world. We share a single bed and sleep almost fully clothed.
ACCOMMODATION (Thorong High Camp) - Rs 175 each
FOOD/DRINK - Rs 375 each
Day 8 - Thorong High Camp - Thorong La Pass....and back again :-(
An awful day, and one of the scariest I can recall. I'd go so far as to call it an unmitigated disaster. Woke up early intending to ascend to the pass and cross nice and early. Visibility extremely poor (only a few meters), and really shocked to discover a freak snow storm as we appraoched the top of the route. I cannot see the way-markers, the snow is rapidly accummulating and the lack of oxygen is making it harder and harder to breathe. I become disorientated and begin to panic; blizzard conditions, terrible visibility, and no idea of which way is the right way to go. Thoughts become focussed every mountain tragedy story I've ever read...I've convinced myself I'm going to freeze to death. Or be mauled by a snow leopard...
I can't progress like this; it's just not possible. So after 2.5 hours walking, we are forced to turn back...back to High Camp and back to the freezing cold hut. It's so cold on the descent back that I actually have to use a hypothermia blanket. We pray that the weather will improve the following day. Very disappointed.
DAY 9 - Thorong High Camp - Thorong La pass - Mukthinath. 14 kms
What a difference a day makes! We set off at 5.30 am, with excellent visibility ahead of us, and even a little peek of blue sky! Despite around 1-2 feet of snow on the pass, we ascend in a couple of hours, and breathe in the spectacular views from the top. It's the best feeling in world; quite literally standing on top of the world. Did I mention that it's the highest mountain pass in the world? Possibly.
5,416 meters. Feeling fucking great.
But we can't afford to linger too long on the pass; it's cold and the air is thin. Time to descent. The way down is a lot larder that I could have anticipated, and I'm glad I've got a walking stick to take my weight. The view is like nothing I've ever seen before - perhaps only in Kashmir and Ladakh. Its hard to put that kind of beauty in to words.
By the time we get to Muktinath, I'm feeling 50 shades of fantastic. Hot shower, bottle of whisky and pizza at Bob Marley cafe, all with the sun in my face.
ACCOMMODATION (Bob Marley Guest House) - FREE
FOOD/DRINK - Rs 600 each
And from here on in was the way down. A breeze, in comparison. I could continue with the excrutiating level of detail, but I won't. It was downhill, we walked, there were mountains, occasional challenges Blah blah etc etc.
The ony thing I will say is that the village of Marpha on the descent is absolutely worth stopping at. Just a beautiful, breezy mountain village with lovely old stones building are a real olde-world feel. Stop here or miss out!
And so goes our Annupurna diaries...
Over the course of 2 weeks, we walked as little as 10 kms some days, while others we pushed ourselves to cover as much as 24 kms. Most days we began walking around 6 am, to avoid the worst of the blistering midday heat, and arrived at our next destination - one of the beautiful little villages on the trail - by mid afternoon, avoiding the evening rains. This left us plenty of time to shower, relax, do laundry, read and of course take plenty of photos of the breath taking landscape before our very early bed-time of 8pm. Forget your city-schedule - for at least 2 weeks you´ll be firmly on “mountain-time.”
All of the food prices listed above are for just one meal per day each. The rest we cooked for ourselves with the equipment we brought with us (sometimes to the obvious chagrin of food and accommodation providers en route...I get the feeling they aren't too happy about people doing this!)
Nonetheless the food along the way is surprisingly good...
Typically the fare offered is vegetarian, in the form of Dal Bhat (a thali meal consisting of rice, dhal, sabji and chapati), vegetable curries, fried rice and chow-mein. More equipped guest houses also offer meat dishes, pizzas and Nepalese momo dumplings. Breakfast meals usually consist of eggs, porridge or muesli - ideal trekking energy food. The price of food can be alarming at times - often 3 or 4 times the normal price, so you may wish to stock up on chocolates, granola bars and other energy foods prior to beginning your trek. The majority of the weight in our backpacks was actually food that we bought in Pokhara, simply to minimise our costs during the trek itself and to make sure that we were adequately stocked up.
In order to minimize the “footprint” that you leave behind, it´s advisable to stay in accommodations that follow eco-friendly practices. That includes cooking with gas as opposed to wood fire, using organic and local produce and encouraging sustainability. These are fragile and precious lands - and in order to preserve them for future generations it´s vital to adhere to the sustainability guidelines. More detailed advice on how to promote sustainability are available from the trekking offices and check-posts en route.
The majority of the trails are in pretty good shape, although some can be considerably more challenging than others. Not every day will be a walk in the park - but not every day will be exhausting either. Nonetheless the route is as universally suitable for fitness junkies as it is for inexperienced or older trekkers. The Annapurna Circuit isn´t a race, nor is it a competition. It is uniquely personal for every trekker. It is perhaps better to think of it as a mental challenge, rather than a physical one because the key to completion lies entirely within. Oscar, who has now completed the circuit twice, believes that trekking the route is akin to undertaking a Vipassana mediation course (see my previous blog post on that adventure!) The peace and solitude that you find along the way allows for a great deal of self-reflection, while the mental and physical stamina that you summon to maintain motivation is a wonderful way to really understand what you personally- and what humans - are capable of.
This way my first long-distance trek - and I´m absolutely sure it won´t be my last. All toenails present and correct after 2 weeks.
Literally - and figuratively - you´ll be on top of the world!
Obtaining the relevant permission:
We trekked the circuit in July - the height of monsoon season in Nepal and therefore “off season” for trekking - but nonetheless found the route to be hassle-free, enjoyable and very rewarding. So what do you need to know? Well, regardless of the season, all trekkers are required to have the relevant permits before entering the Annapurna Conservation Area. These can easily be arranged at the official office, located Damside in Pokhara, or through a reputable trekking agency in the town (although this will cost you considerably more). Save money and go direct to the Damside office. The cost of the relevant permits (ACAP and TIMS) amounts to 4040 Nepalese Rupees altogether - Rs 2000 for the ACAP and Rs 2020 for the TIMS. Once you have these, you are free to start trekking! There are checkpoints en-route that you MUST sign-in to, regardless of the season. These are listed on most Annapurna range maps.
In July this year, while Nepal was still recovering from the most devastating earthquake in it's history, we decided to trek the moderately arduous but well-worn Annapurna Circuit; one of the most loved, most trekked and most challenging routes in the Nepalese Himalayas.
It was also monsoon season.
We were also on a shoestring budget.
What could possibly go wrong?
Where to begin? Before we even arrived in Nepal, at the end of June 2015, me and Oscar had already decided that we were set on trekking the Annapurna Circuit.
Then, while we were still in North India, the earthquake struck. And it was bad - so bad, in fact, that the majority of Indian media outlets had pretty much relegated Nepal to the realms of near extinction. But we remained undeterred. We asked backpackers and trekkers arriving in to India from Nepal what they thought.
They almost unanimously said go.
So we had to go. We had to continue our trip, as planned.
While I'm all for well intentioned so-called "voluntourism", we had already pretty much decided that a couple of weeks of building houses or volunteering in an orphanage or such like wasn't actually going to be that useful for the people of Nepal, for various reasons that it is not necessary to recant here.
In fact, what Nepal needed - and still needs - is for tourists to return. The economy, which is largely built on outdoor pursuits, has taken a huge battering in recent months and the entire infrastructure of this country has been unjustly affected. The majority of trekking routes are completely stable - but have been completely abandoned. Cities like Pokhara barely saw a single brick out of place, but were almost immediately deserted by everyone but the locals and a few gap years voluntourists.
After arriving overland from India, Pokhara was our first destination in Nepal. Neither of us particularly knew what to expect. Disaster zone? Refugee camp? Rubble? In fact what we were met with was nothing of the sort. Like I said - there as barely a brick out of place. The only untoward thing we could see was a distinct lack of tourists. Okay, so that was in part due to the imminent onset of the July monsoon - but nonetheless, there was a distinct lack of people. Hotels were empty, restaurants were empty, trekking shops were empty; the whole tourist area of the city centred around Fewa Lake was like a ghost town.
After a few days adjusting to a new type of monsoon (the Delhi monsoon just about killed both of us) and hanging out in the hospitals and pharmacies of Pokhara trying to help Oscar rid himself of the very nasty bout of food poisoning he picked up in Delhi, we decided it was time to prepare for the trek. 14 days circumnavigating the Annapurna Circuit. 200 kms walking, starting in the village of Besi Sahar (820 meters altitude) and peaking at a staggering 5,416 meters at the Thorong-La Pass - the world´s highest mountain pass - before descending in to the magical and mythical Mustang region, following the route of the mighty Kali Gandaki River.
Pokhara is a great base for trekkers. It offers a glut of trekking and climbing supply shops and expedition and trekking agencies. There is quite literally something for every type of trekker, whether you are a novice or a professional. The equipment on offer varies from shoddy imitations of branded goods, to remarkably good copies, to the real deal. Every budget is catered for.
And if you are unconfident about embarking on the trek solo (or rather, unguided and sans Sherpa), you can sign up to be herded about and have your bags carried for you.
Me and Oscar decided that we were going rogue. No Sherpas, no tour guides, no schedule. Just the two of us, a map and the mountains.
After obtaining our permits (ACAP and TIMS, both vital or you will not be allowed to trek - more on getting these and costs at the bottom), we practically sprinted around Pokhara buying supplies.
What do you need for 2 weeks trekking in Nepal during the monsoon?
If you're carrying your own bags, pack light. In reality, you need half of what you think you need. Economy is key. I took a small day-pack with me, with about 8 kilos of gear, while Oscar took a slightly larger bag with about 10 kilos of gear. Not much for 2 weeks, when you consider we also opted to cook our own food en-route. Here is a summary of the basics required...
⦁ Good hiking boots. Preferably with ankle support. You'll be living in these for the best part of a fortnight.
⦁ Lightweight mountain pants. You're going to need ones that keep you cool and fresh in the often unbearable monsoon heat, but that also dry pretty quickly. Downpours are torrential ( and I can say this with gravitas because I live in Scotland!)
⦁ A baseball cap, or hat. I cannot stress this one enough. My only regret was not taking one. Schoolboy error. The sun is very, very strong and I could often feel my skin actually blistering, even with SPF 50.
⦁ SPF 50 +. Ditto the above. A vital part of your kit. Slather it on every day - and try to avoid cheap generic brands. They don't work. My red raw peeling nose was a testament to that.
⦁ Packable rain jacket. We bought super-fashionable and super sexy rain ponchos, big enough to cover us and our backpacks, but small enough to pack away in to a tiny space.
⦁ 1 litre water bottle, and packs of water purification pills. Refill your water along the way at the designated stations, or fill up from rivers and waterfalls and pop a purification pill in the bottle. Save money (pre-packaged water is ridiculously expensive en-route) and save the environment. No one wants to see another plastic bottle bobbing about the Himalayas. There are cheap refill points available at villages en-route, and at altitudes of over 3000 meters its safe and delicious to fill your bottle from the plentiful waterfalls en route. Alternatively, water purification tablets can be picked up in Pokhara for as little as Rs40 for a package of 10. Otherwise, mineral water will cost you almost 10 times the regular retail price. Plastic pollution is also a blight, even in the highest of the Himalayas. Your mantra while trekking should be along the lines of “leave nothing but a footprint.” It´s a no-brainer!
⦁ Walking poles. Not so much for the way up as for the way down. My knees wouldn't have survived the descent from Thorong-La to Mukthinath without at least one.
⦁ A few warm clothes. It may be monsoon and therefore a hot and humid, but you may actually still encounter some freak weather - snow storms and the like. Don't get caught out. Take a light scarf, some gloves, cost socks and a some thermal baselayers.
⦁ Snacks. Of course you can buy snacks en route but at vastly vastly inflated prices. You may want to think about taking a decent amount of food supplies with you. Snickers, granola bars, nuts etc. Most of the weight in our backpacks was in food supplies, not in equipment. We actually took our own small pot and camping gas/diffuser set with us too, so that we could cook our own breakfasts. I took a bag of porrige oats and a jar of honey and that was me set for 2 weeks. Oscar took pasta and some tortilla wraps, and bought veggies and other ingredients in the villages along the way. If you are a strict and pretty tight budget like we were this is a great way to save money - the cost of meals along the way is pretty steep. Think Rs300 for a basic bowl of porridge. The entire 1kg bag I bought cost less a fraction of the price, and last more than 2 weeks.
⦁ Toilet paper. If you use it, take your own.
⦁ Medical supplies. Anything you need, take it with you. There are a few clinics and health centres on the way but they are only supplied with the basics, and given that we trekked in the off-season, may not eve be open.
⦁ Toiletries. Seriously, you only need the bare minimum. Shampoo (we took sachets to lighten the load), deodorant, plasters/blister pads, SPF, small first aid kit, toilet paper, insect repellent, laundry soap bar. Anything else is a waste of space.
⦁ Clothes Pegs. A few of these are useful for hanging up clothes overnight. I only took one pair of trousers, 2 t shirts, some pyjamas and a limited selection of underwear. Most of it either got wet or saturated with humidity and had to be hung out to dry every night.
⦁ Garlic. It helps with altitude sickness.
⦁ Torch. It gets pretty dark and power cuts are common.
⦁ Swiss Army Knife. I barely leave my house without it.
⦁ Carabiner Clips. Universally useful.
⦁ I-pod/book/journal/playing cards/camera etc. Something to occupy you when you're not trekking
⦁ Salt. For the leeches... Seriously. It's monsoon and they are out in force.
And that's it. Along with some cash, ID, a decent map and the permits, this is it. Vamonos!
DAY 1 - Besi Sahar - Bahundanda. 17 kms
Our first days on the trek were a real mixed bag. Day 1 was actually a lot duller than I expected. The real jaw-dropping landscapes and mountain vistas don't appear until a good few days in to the trek. The first 2-3 days are spent hiking on a dirt road, though rice terraces and are mostly pretty forgettable in terms of being challenging or remarkable. Or at least they would be had I not been struck with the most chronic and hideous bout of food poisoning I think I've ever experienced before. Most likely caused by a bad egg procured in Besi Sahar....
By the end of day 1 I am in tears; an emotional and physical wreck, crippled by the agony one bad, bad egg. We've already walked for 6 hours and reached the first stop-off village to bed down for the night, but I'm having doubts about whether I'll be able to carry on. I'm hopeful that a good sleep and some rest will cure me...
Accommodation along the way is simple, usually in the form of tea-houses or guest houses which offer basic rooms - price dependent on the season of course. In high season expect to pay upwards of 300 Rs per room. In low season, rooms are often a quarter of the cost - or even free, if you agree to eat at least 1 meal in your chosen place. We find a basic room for night and crash out before 8 pm, listening to the gathering thunderstorm in the distance - and in my belly.
ACCOMMODTION (Hotel Kalika) - Rs100 each
FOOD/DRINKS - Rs 275 each
 |
| Distances and altitudes of all the key places on the way |
DAY 2 - Bahundada - Jagat. 8 kms :-(
Day 2 offers absolutely no improvement whatsoever. I feel worse than before, but we know that we have to progress on the trek. We've only been walking for a day - there's no way either of us want to be held up right now, regardless of how I am feeling.
By midday I've had to dive in to bushes around 12 times to purge the evil out from my system, and I'm almost completely dependent on my walking pole to keep me upright. Energy low, fluid low, no appetite, sweaty mess. It's horribly humid, I'm beyond boiled and formulating plots to leave; to find a jeep to get me back to Pokhara. But that's going to cost - and not just pocket change. I'm not ready to fork out my dignity, pride and a significant pile of cash on bailing after one day.
Thankfully Oscar - who had just been in the local hospital receiving treatment for severe food poisoning - still had a stash of antibiotics on him. I take one of everything, and then an extra one for good measure in the hope that it kills whatever poison is lurking inside. ACCOMMODATION (Mont Blanc Guesthouse) - Rs 50 each
FOOD/DRINKS - Rs 200 each
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| Some new pals |
DAY 3 - Jagat - Dharapani. 15 kms
...And the antibiotics have take effect! I feel significantly better. The landscape is improving with every kilometer, despite the rain and low cloud. As well as encountering a massive field of ganga to hike through, my legs are besieged by leeches (a veritable bloodbath and full on panic ensues), and we encounter a truly massive and very dangerous landslide that we are forced to climb over.
ACCOMMODATION (New Tibet Guest House) Rs 75 each
FOOD/DRINKS - Rs 360 each
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| Aforementioned field of ganga |
DAY 4 - Dharapani to Chame. 16 kms
We've finally left the humidity of the rice terraces and are trekking through forest. We've also increased the altitude - which means no more leeches. Thank god!
ACCOMMODATION (Namo Buddha Guest House) Rs 50 each
FOOD/DRINKS - Rs 300 each
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| New pals, curious as to what we're up to... (cooking, by the way!) |
DAY 5 - Chame to Gyarhu. 19 kms
The first 13 kilometers were pretty easy but after this, it got a little trickier. We decide to take an alternative route to Gyarhu, a village quite literally at the very top of a steep hill. The last hour hiking up was extremely tough - it's steep and the thin air is taking its toll. Sunburn is becoming an issue - factor 50 just isn't cutting it! The village is incredible; quaint, quiet and covered with wild berries, mint and yak bones. And it has astounding views of Annuapurna II, Annapurna III and the Gangapurna, especially from the prayer flags at the edge of the mountain. This village is unmissable!
ACCOMMODATION (Yak Ru Guest House) - Rs 25 each
FOOD/DRINKS - Rs 300 each. We also spent an additional Rs250 on some damn fine yak cheese. Nothing worse than a dry cracker!
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| Just outside Gyarhu (excuse the headwear...) |
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| Annapurna II peeking through the morning mist |
Day 6 - Gyarhu - Manang. 15 kms
An easy start to the day, with a nice 4 hour descent from Ghyaru. Beautiful villages en-route to Manang. Even Manang - the last "big" village before the Thorong-La pass is nice- a good place to restock for the challenge ahead, and acclimatise to the high altitude. It's advisable to spend 2 nights here to allow your body to fully acclimatise, but as we arrived pretty much straight from Ladakh in North India, we were well acclimatised and didn't feel the need to stop.
Small shops, a medical centre, some 'cinemas' (in the season) and a glut of accommodation available. Possibly the last village where hot water is available for free - but only by the bucket. So wash and do laundry here, or live to regret it!
ACCOMMODATION (Glacier Dome Lodge) - Rs 50 each
FOOD/DRINK - Rs 300 each. We also had to pay to charge electronics here - this is pretty common so high up. It was Rs50 to charge a battery back to full.
DAY 7 - Manang - Thorong High Camp. 17 kms
A very tough and very wet 17 kms. I was sure that we'd have encountered the fabled "rain shadow" by now, but sadly not. We started the day at 3,450 meters in altitude in Manang, and finished at 4,925 meters, at High Camp. The landscape is remarkable and we can hear the mountains echoing around us; moving and talking. We see Himalayan Blue Sheep, some eagles and a few foxes as we ascend to high camp. It's a dangerous path, plagued with landslides, and every footstep is critical. I'm even afraid to speak to loudly in case something is triggered.
The last hour climbing is so hard, the route is incredible steep and pretty treacherous. Calves on fire. High Camp is a collection of freezing cold huts, pretty much on top of the world. We share a single bed and sleep almost fully clothed.
ACCOMMODATION (Thorong High Camp) - Rs 175 each
FOOD/DRINK - Rs 375 each
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| En route to high camp |
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| Himalayan Blue Sheep |
Day 8 - Thorong High Camp - Thorong La Pass....and back again :-(
An awful day, and one of the scariest I can recall. I'd go so far as to call it an unmitigated disaster. Woke up early intending to ascend to the pass and cross nice and early. Visibility extremely poor (only a few meters), and really shocked to discover a freak snow storm as we appraoched the top of the route. I cannot see the way-markers, the snow is rapidly accummulating and the lack of oxygen is making it harder and harder to breathe. I become disorientated and begin to panic; blizzard conditions, terrible visibility, and no idea of which way is the right way to go. Thoughts become focussed every mountain tragedy story I've ever read...I've convinced myself I'm going to freeze to death. Or be mauled by a snow leopard...
I can't progress like this; it's just not possible. So after 2.5 hours walking, we are forced to turn back...back to High Camp and back to the freezing cold hut. It's so cold on the descent back that I actually have to use a hypothermia blanket. We pray that the weather will improve the following day. Very disappointed.
DAY 9 - Thorong High Camp - Thorong La pass - Mukthinath. 14 kms
What a difference a day makes! We set off at 5.30 am, with excellent visibility ahead of us, and even a little peek of blue sky! Despite around 1-2 feet of snow on the pass, we ascend in a couple of hours, and breathe in the spectacular views from the top. It's the best feeling in world; quite literally standing on top of the world. Did I mention that it's the highest mountain pass in the world? Possibly.
5,416 meters. Feeling fucking great.
But we can't afford to linger too long on the pass; it's cold and the air is thin. Time to descent. The way down is a lot larder that I could have anticipated, and I'm glad I've got a walking stick to take my weight. The view is like nothing I've ever seen before - perhaps only in Kashmir and Ladakh. Its hard to put that kind of beauty in to words.
By the time we get to Muktinath, I'm feeling 50 shades of fantastic. Hot shower, bottle of whisky and pizza at Bob Marley cafe, all with the sun in my face.
ACCOMMODATION (Bob Marley Guest House) - FREE
FOOD/DRINK - Rs 600 each
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| Shangri-La... or rather, Thorong-La |
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| 5,416 meters |
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| Descending the pass, in to Upper Mustang region |
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| The view that goes on and on |
And from here on in was the way down. A breeze, in comparison. I could continue with the excrutiating level of detail, but I won't. It was downhill, we walked, there were mountains, occasional challenges Blah blah etc etc.
The ony thing I will say is that the village of Marpha on the descent is absolutely worth stopping at. Just a beautiful, breezy mountain village with lovely old stones building are a real olde-world feel. Stop here or miss out!
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| Dirty Old River...the Kali Gandaki. A welcome companion in the descent... |
And so goes our Annupurna diaries...
Over the course of 2 weeks, we walked as little as 10 kms some days, while others we pushed ourselves to cover as much as 24 kms. Most days we began walking around 6 am, to avoid the worst of the blistering midday heat, and arrived at our next destination - one of the beautiful little villages on the trail - by mid afternoon, avoiding the evening rains. This left us plenty of time to shower, relax, do laundry, read and of course take plenty of photos of the breath taking landscape before our very early bed-time of 8pm. Forget your city-schedule - for at least 2 weeks you´ll be firmly on “mountain-time.”
All of the food prices listed above are for just one meal per day each. The rest we cooked for ourselves with the equipment we brought with us (sometimes to the obvious chagrin of food and accommodation providers en route...I get the feeling they aren't too happy about people doing this!)
Nonetheless the food along the way is surprisingly good...
Typically the fare offered is vegetarian, in the form of Dal Bhat (a thali meal consisting of rice, dhal, sabji and chapati), vegetable curries, fried rice and chow-mein. More equipped guest houses also offer meat dishes, pizzas and Nepalese momo dumplings. Breakfast meals usually consist of eggs, porridge or muesli - ideal trekking energy food. The price of food can be alarming at times - often 3 or 4 times the normal price, so you may wish to stock up on chocolates, granola bars and other energy foods prior to beginning your trek. The majority of the weight in our backpacks was actually food that we bought in Pokhara, simply to minimise our costs during the trek itself and to make sure that we were adequately stocked up.
In order to minimize the “footprint” that you leave behind, it´s advisable to stay in accommodations that follow eco-friendly practices. That includes cooking with gas as opposed to wood fire, using organic and local produce and encouraging sustainability. These are fragile and precious lands - and in order to preserve them for future generations it´s vital to adhere to the sustainability guidelines. More detailed advice on how to promote sustainability are available from the trekking offices and check-posts en route.
The majority of the trails are in pretty good shape, although some can be considerably more challenging than others. Not every day will be a walk in the park - but not every day will be exhausting either. Nonetheless the route is as universally suitable for fitness junkies as it is for inexperienced or older trekkers. The Annapurna Circuit isn´t a race, nor is it a competition. It is uniquely personal for every trekker. It is perhaps better to think of it as a mental challenge, rather than a physical one because the key to completion lies entirely within. Oscar, who has now completed the circuit twice, believes that trekking the route is akin to undertaking a Vipassana mediation course (see my previous blog post on that adventure!) The peace and solitude that you find along the way allows for a great deal of self-reflection, while the mental and physical stamina that you summon to maintain motivation is a wonderful way to really understand what you personally- and what humans - are capable of.
This way my first long-distance trek - and I´m absolutely sure it won´t be my last. All toenails present and correct after 2 weeks.
Literally - and figuratively - you´ll be on top of the world!
Obtaining the relevant permission:
We trekked the circuit in July - the height of monsoon season in Nepal and therefore “off season” for trekking - but nonetheless found the route to be hassle-free, enjoyable and very rewarding. So what do you need to know? Well, regardless of the season, all trekkers are required to have the relevant permits before entering the Annapurna Conservation Area. These can easily be arranged at the official office, located Damside in Pokhara, or through a reputable trekking agency in the town (although this will cost you considerably more). Save money and go direct to the Damside office. The cost of the relevant permits (ACAP and TIMS) amounts to 4040 Nepalese Rupees altogether - Rs 2000 for the ACAP and Rs 2020 for the TIMS. Once you have these, you are free to start trekking! There are checkpoints en-route that you MUST sign-in to, regardless of the season. These are listed on most Annapurna range maps.
Very nice
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