The road to Pai, a town about 4 hours north of Chiang Mai, is really not a pleasant one. Not in the slightest. Ok, so the scenery may be beautiful, but there are 762 break-neck bends, sharp twists and death defying corners to negotiate along the way, and almost as soon as I set foot on the minibus I can fee the nausea rising. Thankfully, my last night in Chiang Mai was a sober affair - I cannot imagine anything worse than tackling this road with a hangover...
Strangely, a very bizarre incident occurs on the bus that leaves most of the passengers totally aghast. First of all, it;s important to know that the north of Thailand is a really chilled out place. Almost horizontal. Time is irrelevant here; everything runs on 'Thai time' (approximately 1 hour behind any time that you are quoted). It's simply a relaxed place.
So imagine the collective gasps of disgust when 'Giorgio', a flamboyant and completely arrogant Italian backpacker has a wild tantrum mid journey, because his friend is on a different minibus. Now don't get me wrong - I understand that it must be a truly traumatic experience, as an adult male, to be separated from your friend for a 4 hour bus journey. No one to hold hands with, cuddle up to, or just share a bag of sweets with. Unthinkable.
Giorgio, the hero of the story, really took this separation badly and began a tirade of abuse at the driver (because obviously the buck stops with him) which culminated in a unashamed racist rant about about 'stupid fucking monkeys.' Which leads me to spend a great deal of time in the coming weeks pondering why on earth xenophobic racists bother travelling in the place? If anyone can shed some light on this...
Thankfully the bus journey is not all bad, and I meet Taylor, Aidan and Phil, 2 Canadians and and English guy, so we agree to meet for drinks at a bar in town in the evening. Pai is a tiny little town nestled in a beautiful mountainous valley, so it doesn't take long to find some accommodation. Strangely, 'Family Huts', the accommodation I choose, doesn't actually have any free rooms for the first evening of my stay, but the owner seems mad-keen for me to hang around (for reasons which will be explained later...) and offers me the laundry cupboard for the night - at a very discounted price, of course. Why not?!
After a short walk around the town (this takes all of 20 minutes - lots of little boutiques, cafes, health food bars etc) I get ready to meet the guys for drinks, and recruit Max, a Californian weed farmer who is also staying at the bungalows. We start at The Good Life bar, a hippy little affair with wheatgrass growing everywhere and a good selection of teas and beers from across the world. A civilised start to an evening which progresses in to reggae bars, techno clubs (even in this quaint little village!) and a crazed American Hells Angel who also seems to have a bit of a racist attitude. Luckily I don't think his young Thai wife could understand what he was saying...
Pai is the first place I have really encountered in Thailand where the climate is far more agreeable for my pale Scottish skin and aversion to baking heat. Of course it is sweltering during the day, but early morning and night time are actually pretty chilly here; scarves, gloves and woolly jumpers are needed!
The majority of my time here is spent frequenting the local bars with the guys, drinking coffee and wandering around the markets, which are excellent. There's a thriving arts/alternative scene here, so it's possible to find things that are unique and a welcome change form all the usual tat that tourist oriented markets sell.
But it's not all drinking and being totally unproductive. While I'm here, I decide to enrol on a cookery course and learn how to make all these delicious curries, soups and sweets that are menu staples. I search round and come across Red Orchid, an Thai-English run place that allows student to pick 5 dishes to cook over the course of a full day, and all for just 600 baht. Dao, the teacher, is a lovely woman, very patient and very funny. By a stroke of luck, there is only 1 other person doing the course with me, so we pretty much have her full attention form 9 am till 9pm (with a nap-break in the middle when I start to fall in to a food-coma...). By the end of the day, I am a veritable expert on green curry, pad thai, sticky rice with mango, khao soy and spring rolls. And at least 2 stones heavier.
Because of it's compact size but vast and beautiful outlying scenery, Pai is a great place to hire a motorbike and take off in to the wilderness. I haven't ridden one since India, but soon I'm a pro again and zipping about the countryside visting waterfalls and beauty spots. It's great to have a little bit of freedom too, and not be so reliant on public transport or organised tours.
In true Charlotte style, no stay in another country would be complete without something completely ridiculous happening to me (or more like me agreeing to something completely ridiculous!) Toyo, the overly keen 50 year old owner of the bungalows I am staying at corners me one evening (once all the boys have moved on to pastures new and I am alone again) and asks me out for drinks. And I can think of absolutely nothing to say; i have no excuse not to go. Not one. So I find myself agreeing to be taken to some local live music bars to drink and party. Jesus.
Now don't get me wrong - he's a lovely man. But I'm not really on the look for an ageing Thai boyfriend who's masquerading as a Rastafarian. I do have a fairly hilarious night though, knocking back red wine and listening to reggae. But Toyo manages to sour it a little by constantly saying that he will "wait for me". I'm not entirely sure what he means by this, but images of Jack and Rose a la Titanic, professing their undying love for one another spring to mind.
Hell, I have to invent a fake boyfriend to deter him!
And on that note it's time to say goodbye to Pai. There is something totally compelling, charming and enchanting about this place, and I am yet to meet another person who hasn't enjoyed their time here. If you're looking for constant action and stimulation, this probably isn't the place for you. But for a tiny mountain town there is plenty to keep occupied for as long as you want.
Pai
How to get there: From Chiang Mai minibuses run pretty much on the hour every hour from 7 am till 5pm. Depending on where you book, tickets range in price from 150 baht to 200 baht.
Where to stay: Family Huts bungalows. Lovely establishment based across the river, and one of the cheaper private options. A single bungalows with fan and shared bathroom will set you back 150 baht per night.
Where to eat/drink: Plenty of places to choose from here, all ranging in quality, prices and type of food available. Loads of options for street food at the night market, and stalls selling the local dish Khao Soy (red curry with noodles) during the day for around 40 baht. The Good Life is a jack-of-all-trades places, selling health foods, beers, coffees, different teas, great food and is very reasonably priced. They also offer a book exchange.
Motorbikes: A few places offer them but the mot reliable and established is right on the main street next to the bus stop. Bikes are automatic or semi-automatic and are 100 baht per day. Insurance can be added for 40 baht. Petrol will set you back around 40 baht per litre.
Cooking: Red Orchid cookery school, situated off a little back street in the centre of town. Prices start at 600 baht for 5 dishes. Excellent teacher!
Strangely, a very bizarre incident occurs on the bus that leaves most of the passengers totally aghast. First of all, it;s important to know that the north of Thailand is a really chilled out place. Almost horizontal. Time is irrelevant here; everything runs on 'Thai time' (approximately 1 hour behind any time that you are quoted). It's simply a relaxed place.
So imagine the collective gasps of disgust when 'Giorgio', a flamboyant and completely arrogant Italian backpacker has a wild tantrum mid journey, because his friend is on a different minibus. Now don't get me wrong - I understand that it must be a truly traumatic experience, as an adult male, to be separated from your friend for a 4 hour bus journey. No one to hold hands with, cuddle up to, or just share a bag of sweets with. Unthinkable.
Giorgio, the hero of the story, really took this separation badly and began a tirade of abuse at the driver (because obviously the buck stops with him) which culminated in a unashamed racist rant about about 'stupid fucking monkeys.' Which leads me to spend a great deal of time in the coming weeks pondering why on earth xenophobic racists bother travelling in the place? If anyone can shed some light on this...
Thankfully the bus journey is not all bad, and I meet Taylor, Aidan and Phil, 2 Canadians and and English guy, so we agree to meet for drinks at a bar in town in the evening. Pai is a tiny little town nestled in a beautiful mountainous valley, so it doesn't take long to find some accommodation. Strangely, 'Family Huts', the accommodation I choose, doesn't actually have any free rooms for the first evening of my stay, but the owner seems mad-keen for me to hang around (for reasons which will be explained later...) and offers me the laundry cupboard for the night - at a very discounted price, of course. Why not?!
After a short walk around the town (this takes all of 20 minutes - lots of little boutiques, cafes, health food bars etc) I get ready to meet the guys for drinks, and recruit Max, a Californian weed farmer who is also staying at the bungalows. We start at The Good Life bar, a hippy little affair with wheatgrass growing everywhere and a good selection of teas and beers from across the world. A civilised start to an evening which progresses in to reggae bars, techno clubs (even in this quaint little village!) and a crazed American Hells Angel who also seems to have a bit of a racist attitude. Luckily I don't think his young Thai wife could understand what he was saying...
Pai is the first place I have really encountered in Thailand where the climate is far more agreeable for my pale Scottish skin and aversion to baking heat. Of course it is sweltering during the day, but early morning and night time are actually pretty chilly here; scarves, gloves and woolly jumpers are needed!
The majority of my time here is spent frequenting the local bars with the guys, drinking coffee and wandering around the markets, which are excellent. There's a thriving arts/alternative scene here, so it's possible to find things that are unique and a welcome change form all the usual tat that tourist oriented markets sell.
But it's not all drinking and being totally unproductive. While I'm here, I decide to enrol on a cookery course and learn how to make all these delicious curries, soups and sweets that are menu staples. I search round and come across Red Orchid, an Thai-English run place that allows student to pick 5 dishes to cook over the course of a full day, and all for just 600 baht. Dao, the teacher, is a lovely woman, very patient and very funny. By a stroke of luck, there is only 1 other person doing the course with me, so we pretty much have her full attention form 9 am till 9pm (with a nap-break in the middle when I start to fall in to a food-coma...). By the end of the day, I am a veritable expert on green curry, pad thai, sticky rice with mango, khao soy and spring rolls. And at least 2 stones heavier.
Because of it's compact size but vast and beautiful outlying scenery, Pai is a great place to hire a motorbike and take off in to the wilderness. I haven't ridden one since India, but soon I'm a pro again and zipping about the countryside visting waterfalls and beauty spots. It's great to have a little bit of freedom too, and not be so reliant on public transport or organised tours.
In true Charlotte style, no stay in another country would be complete without something completely ridiculous happening to me (or more like me agreeing to something completely ridiculous!) Toyo, the overly keen 50 year old owner of the bungalows I am staying at corners me one evening (once all the boys have moved on to pastures new and I am alone again) and asks me out for drinks. And I can think of absolutely nothing to say; i have no excuse not to go. Not one. So I find myself agreeing to be taken to some local live music bars to drink and party. Jesus.
Now don't get me wrong - he's a lovely man. But I'm not really on the look for an ageing Thai boyfriend who's masquerading as a Rastafarian. I do have a fairly hilarious night though, knocking back red wine and listening to reggae. But Toyo manages to sour it a little by constantly saying that he will "wait for me". I'm not entirely sure what he means by this, but images of Jack and Rose a la Titanic, professing their undying love for one another spring to mind.
Hell, I have to invent a fake boyfriend to deter him!
And on that note it's time to say goodbye to Pai. There is something totally compelling, charming and enchanting about this place, and I am yet to meet another person who hasn't enjoyed their time here. If you're looking for constant action and stimulation, this probably isn't the place for you. But for a tiny mountain town there is plenty to keep occupied for as long as you want.
Pai
How to get there: From Chiang Mai minibuses run pretty much on the hour every hour from 7 am till 5pm. Depending on where you book, tickets range in price from 150 baht to 200 baht.
Where to stay: Family Huts bungalows. Lovely establishment based across the river, and one of the cheaper private options. A single bungalows with fan and shared bathroom will set you back 150 baht per night.
Where to eat/drink: Plenty of places to choose from here, all ranging in quality, prices and type of food available. Loads of options for street food at the night market, and stalls selling the local dish Khao Soy (red curry with noodles) during the day for around 40 baht. The Good Life is a jack-of-all-trades places, selling health foods, beers, coffees, different teas, great food and is very reasonably priced. They also offer a book exchange.
Motorbikes: A few places offer them but the mot reliable and established is right on the main street next to the bus stop. Bikes are automatic or semi-automatic and are 100 baht per day. Insurance can be added for 40 baht. Petrol will set you back around 40 baht per litre.
Cooking: Red Orchid cookery school, situated off a little back street in the centre of town. Prices start at 600 baht for 5 dishes. Excellent teacher!
