After my final foray in frantic Bangkok, it's time to start working my way north, towards Chiang Mai, and the elusive Pai, which I consistently hear good things about. To split up my journey, I decide to stop of in Ayuttayah, a fairly uninspiring temple-town around 3 hours north of Bangkok. The 2 nights I spend there are largely comprised of phlegm, coughing, sneezing and repeated trips to the pharmacy for sleeping tablets. Air conditioning is both a blessing and a burden for every traveller at some point! Nonetheless Ayuttayah is a pleasant little diversion, and turns out to be fruitful when I meet David while we are both waiting on the night train to Chiang Mai. David is a Spanish backpacker (and my new gay-best-friend/bitching partner/wine appreciator/mojito drinking buddy) who will become my travel mate at various stages in the coming weeks.
The train is long and slow and finally rolls in to Chiang Mai after 15 hours. David decides to join me at a guest house that I've heard about, so we head there straight away and are lucky to find a couple of rooms; funnily enough, the hippy reggae bar frequented by laidback stoners is perpetually popular (!) so getting a room can often be tricky.
Chinag Mai very much feels like a small town, with most of the action and main attractions contained within the city walls. But actually, outwith the comfort of the walls, the city is large and sprawling, In any case it has a laidback, relaxed and very friendly vibe, and is easily the kind of place where you can stay for a couple of weeks without ever getting bored. There is something for everyone here; from cookery courses to jungle treks and artisan coffee shops to buzzing bars.
I have primarily come to Chiang Mai to do yoga. It's been a few months, but there are an abundance of courses available here, and I eventually decide on one which is not only very reasonably priced but close to my guest house (making the morning classes more realistic to attend...) And so begins 8 days of twice-daily yoga at the Blue Garden. The first day is tough, but soon I'm back in to the habit and feeling zen/chi/whatever.
Sadly my inner peace is abruptly shattered midway through my stay in Chiang Mai, by a thoroughly traumatic event. An event so hideous that I can still feel the repercussions now. I idly wander along to the street to collect my freshly laundered clothes, and am aghast to discover that several items are missing. And not just any items. Only underwear. Probably around 7 pairs of knickers. Naturally I rush back and demand that they find the missing knickers, but this is a fruitless task. They are gone; wrongly delivered to someone else. Though I suspect most likely delivered to some delighted ladyboy, delighted with his/her new Primark smalls. Now I understand that this may seem like a dramatic overreaction, but buying new undergarmets in Thailand is no mean feat, particulary when you are over 5 feet tall and 7 stone in weight. And don't particularly want crotchless pants/padded pants/granny pants that resemble nappies. Alas!
Luckily this is my only Chiang Mai disaster, and I have a great time for the duration of my stay, visiting the incredible temples, practicing yoga daily and whiling away the days in coffee shops and bars idly reading and people watching. One day, I decide to skip yoga altogether and take a trip outside of the town, to go to Doi Ithanon national park. Although part of an organised excursion, I have an action packed and enjoyable day elephant trekking, visiting local hill-tribe villages and paddy fields and bamboo rafting along the sleepy rivers that weave through the lush mountains. Well worth the 700 baht cost.
My time in Chiang Mai also coincides with the annual reggae festival that takes place here, and me and David decide go along to the one day event and enjoy a day of drinking cheap pineapple and rosella wine and SangSom Rum while enjoying some really laidback reggae. It's a a very chilled out festival, and the atmosphere is perfect. But of course afternoon boozing in the sunshine ends as it typically does - passed out comatose and fully clothed with a cheese and him micro-toastie from the 7-11. Needless to say I am brutally hungover the following day, and for some utterly inexplicable reason decide that morning yoga will alleviate the pain.
No. This is a huge mistake. Yoga does not cure a hangover. Instead I only garner disapproving looks from the instructor as I rush off in the middle of a downwards dog to vomit and shiver in the bathroom. Lesson learned!
The rest of my time in this action-packed little city is spent perusing the wares at the local markets, which are brilliant here. The weekend market which takes over the streets around Th Pae Gate area of town is particularly good; loads of local and international street food, leathers, silks, jewelley, bags, clothing... Shoppers paradise, so long as you haggle hard!
As my time in Chiang Mai is coming to an close, I organise my onward travel to Pai, I town that I have been promised that I will love. I'm hoping it lives up to expectations...
Chiang Mai
Where to Stay: Giant 2 Guest House, near the Chinag Mai Gate. Single fan room cost 180 baht and are clean and shared bathrooms with hot running water. The guest house is very friendly and also offers free tea, real coffee and bottled water.
Where to Eat: There are loads of places to choose, from street stalls selling 35 baht pad thai, to restaurants serving Asian and Western cuisine. 2 excellent places serving cheap and delicious food are 'Bunny Cafe' in the city walls, and 'Regina', an art shop cum restaurant overlooking the river.
Yoga: I practiced at the Blue Garden, where drop in classes start at 200 baht and weekly/monthy/10 cards passes can also be bought. Excellent, patient instruction and possible for all abilities. Recommended!
Travel: The main part of the city is really walkable, but most guest houses will also rent out bicycles at a daily rate of around 50 baht. Shared taxis (songthaews) will cost 50-100 baht depending on the length of journey.
Getting there: Train is by fat the most scenic and comfortable way to get to Chaing Mai, from either Bangkok or Ayuttayah. It takes longer than the bus the journey is worth it. Just make sure to book a few days in advance. The overnight ticket in a regular non-sleeper seat cost me around 400 baht.
The train is long and slow and finally rolls in to Chiang Mai after 15 hours. David decides to join me at a guest house that I've heard about, so we head there straight away and are lucky to find a couple of rooms; funnily enough, the hippy reggae bar frequented by laidback stoners is perpetually popular (!) so getting a room can often be tricky.
Chinag Mai very much feels like a small town, with most of the action and main attractions contained within the city walls. But actually, outwith the comfort of the walls, the city is large and sprawling, In any case it has a laidback, relaxed and very friendly vibe, and is easily the kind of place where you can stay for a couple of weeks without ever getting bored. There is something for everyone here; from cookery courses to jungle treks and artisan coffee shops to buzzing bars.
I have primarily come to Chiang Mai to do yoga. It's been a few months, but there are an abundance of courses available here, and I eventually decide on one which is not only very reasonably priced but close to my guest house (making the morning classes more realistic to attend...) And so begins 8 days of twice-daily yoga at the Blue Garden. The first day is tough, but soon I'm back in to the habit and feeling zen/chi/whatever.
Sadly my inner peace is abruptly shattered midway through my stay in Chiang Mai, by a thoroughly traumatic event. An event so hideous that I can still feel the repercussions now. I idly wander along to the street to collect my freshly laundered clothes, and am aghast to discover that several items are missing. And not just any items. Only underwear. Probably around 7 pairs of knickers. Naturally I rush back and demand that they find the missing knickers, but this is a fruitless task. They are gone; wrongly delivered to someone else. Though I suspect most likely delivered to some delighted ladyboy, delighted with his/her new Primark smalls. Now I understand that this may seem like a dramatic overreaction, but buying new undergarmets in Thailand is no mean feat, particulary when you are over 5 feet tall and 7 stone in weight. And don't particularly want crotchless pants/padded pants/granny pants that resemble nappies. Alas!
Luckily this is my only Chiang Mai disaster, and I have a great time for the duration of my stay, visiting the incredible temples, practicing yoga daily and whiling away the days in coffee shops and bars idly reading and people watching. One day, I decide to skip yoga altogether and take a trip outside of the town, to go to Doi Ithanon national park. Although part of an organised excursion, I have an action packed and enjoyable day elephant trekking, visiting local hill-tribe villages and paddy fields and bamboo rafting along the sleepy rivers that weave through the lush mountains. Well worth the 700 baht cost.
My time in Chiang Mai also coincides with the annual reggae festival that takes place here, and me and David decide go along to the one day event and enjoy a day of drinking cheap pineapple and rosella wine and SangSom Rum while enjoying some really laidback reggae. It's a a very chilled out festival, and the atmosphere is perfect. But of course afternoon boozing in the sunshine ends as it typically does - passed out comatose and fully clothed with a cheese and him micro-toastie from the 7-11. Needless to say I am brutally hungover the following day, and for some utterly inexplicable reason decide that morning yoga will alleviate the pain.
No. This is a huge mistake. Yoga does not cure a hangover. Instead I only garner disapproving looks from the instructor as I rush off in the middle of a downwards dog to vomit and shiver in the bathroom. Lesson learned!
The rest of my time in this action-packed little city is spent perusing the wares at the local markets, which are brilliant here. The weekend market which takes over the streets around Th Pae Gate area of town is particularly good; loads of local and international street food, leathers, silks, jewelley, bags, clothing... Shoppers paradise, so long as you haggle hard!
As my time in Chiang Mai is coming to an close, I organise my onward travel to Pai, I town that I have been promised that I will love. I'm hoping it lives up to expectations...
Chiang Mai
Where to Stay: Giant 2 Guest House, near the Chinag Mai Gate. Single fan room cost 180 baht and are clean and shared bathrooms with hot running water. The guest house is very friendly and also offers free tea, real coffee and bottled water.
Where to Eat: There are loads of places to choose, from street stalls selling 35 baht pad thai, to restaurants serving Asian and Western cuisine. 2 excellent places serving cheap and delicious food are 'Bunny Cafe' in the city walls, and 'Regina', an art shop cum restaurant overlooking the river.
Yoga: I practiced at the Blue Garden, where drop in classes start at 200 baht and weekly/monthy/10 cards passes can also be bought. Excellent, patient instruction and possible for all abilities. Recommended!
Travel: The main part of the city is really walkable, but most guest houses will also rent out bicycles at a daily rate of around 50 baht. Shared taxis (songthaews) will cost 50-100 baht depending on the length of journey.
Getting there: Train is by fat the most scenic and comfortable way to get to Chaing Mai, from either Bangkok or Ayuttayah. It takes longer than the bus the journey is worth it. Just make sure to book a few days in advance. The overnight ticket in a regular non-sleeper seat cost me around 400 baht.
No comments:
Post a Comment