A couple of days after new year, and with only 2 days left on my visa, I decide to start the very long trip from Krabi in southern Thailand, to Siem Reap in northern Cambodia. It's going to be a bus-laden couple of days of travel, but Cambodia promises greatness, so I'm determined that hours sitting on sweaty, cramped buses is going to be worth it in the end...
The first part of the the trip is the overnight bus from Krabi to Bangkok, where my newly acquired robbery-paranoia means I barely sleep at all, and spend the majority of the night hugging my handbag and checking that the wad of cash I stuffed in my bra is still there. Thankfully my baht-filled bra is in tact in the morning!
Although I've never had any major disasters at border crossings I'm always a bit anxious about them, and even moreso when they are 'notorious' for being problematic, like the Aryanprathet to Poipet crossing that I am doing. I always panic that my name is going to appear on an Interpol list and I'll be swiftly deported. Or my washing-machine ruined passport will arouse too much suspicion. And of course, crossing land borders is a bit like going from one area of no-mans land to another area of no-mans land; there are dodgy people aplenty just waiting to relieve of you money, foul-tempered police storming around, black market money changers charging exorbitant commision rates and plenty of confused tourists wandering around looking lost.
A quick google search will tell you that the Thailand to Cambodia crossing ticks all of these boxes and then some. In the "Crossing the Border" section below I have listed some advice and tips for anyone about to make this crossing who doesn't want to succumb to the numerous scams and money-making rackets that trip up so many travellers.
Anyways, border business aside, Siem Reap in the north of the country is a well-worn travellers haunt, right next to the amazing temples of Angkor Wat. Despite a late night arrival (which is always a little dubious) I feel almost instantly happy to be in Cambodia. Although it's too early to tell exactly what and why, there is something immediately likeable about Siem Reap. I'm now with another solo female traveller who I met on the bus on the way here, and although it's close to midnight, the vibe of this little town is comfortable enough that both of us are pretty content to wander around with our backpacks looking for somewhere to stay. We eventually find an amazing little family run guest house, 10 minutes walk from the centre of town (aka Pub Street) where a massive room with 2 double beds costs us only $2 each per night. Seriously! That equates to about £1.20 per night. Unbelievable.
The main draw for travellers coming in to Siem Reap is Angkor Wat, the incredible (and deceptively vast) complex of temples that are spread out next to the town. There are a few ways to get to the temples, and which ever way you choose will probably depend on how adventurous/energetic you are feeling,and how much time you have. For people visiting the temples with a 1 day ticket, then negotiating a tuk-tuk ride is probably most beneficial. One full-day tuk-tuk hire can range in price massively so be prepared to haggle hard! We managed to bargain our driver down to $9 for the full day (the cheapest I have heard of to date), wheresas other were paying in excess of $20. People with a little more time and a little more interest in the temples might want to invest in a 3-day ticket. At $40, it's not cheap (especially by Cambodian terms), but it's absolutely the most worthwhile way to see the temples, and can be used on non-consecutive days. By opting for the 3 day ticket, you can afford to see at least one sunrise, one sunset, a lot more of the smaller, quieter and more obscure temples, and all at a far more leisurely pace. And of course, the most rewarding way to visit the temples is by bicycle. Starting at $1 per day for hire of old school Dutch-style bone-shakers, the landscape is flat enough that any level of ability or fitness can manage. Just take a sun-hat...
The temples at Angkor are arguably unrivalled in the world, and for good reason. The immensity of the whole complex is humbling, and the architecture is so intricate and on such a grand scale that it is almost unbelievable. Our 3 days there, although amazing and totally unforgettable, did have a few drawbacks, however....
1. Tourists! Ok, so I know I fall into this category too, but the sheer numbers of tourist visiting this place on a daily basis is verging on ridiculous! From colossal tour groups of Japanese (who pop up in every one of my pictures somewhere in the background, fingers splayed in the archetypal "v" sign) to rich Americans in minibuses (who only turn up to take the standard photos of sunrise at Angkor Wat then go back to their all-inclusive hotels for breakfast), there are hoardes of people everywhere. That's why it's definitely worth investing in a 3 day pass and seeing some of the smaller temples that are often quieter and much more peaceful.
2. Sellers/Hawkers. If you've already been to Angkor, then you'll know exactly what I mean. You can barely walk 2 meters without someone - usually a small child - trying to sell you something. From postcards to scarves to soft drinks, the calls of "please, only 1 dollaaar" will inevitably eventually grate. It's sad and of course you find yourself feeling pretty emotional about the plight of these kids and wanting to help, but buying a couple of fridge magnets is not the way. These kids are smart (when they find out your nationality they will usually impress you with facts and figures about your country or start speaking in your native tongue), and many do attend school already. So buying from them, or entertaining their often emotional pleas only encourages the 'begging' behaviour.
3. The heat! Cambodia is HOT! It may not be a major consideration to most, but it should be. Spending a full day walking around temples (many of which are fairly exposed) is exhausting, especially in direct or midday sunlight. Take water. And a hat. And don't forget, it's dusty too, so be prepared to turn the shower-water brown when you get back to your hostel...
Of course, Siem Reap isn't all about the temples. It's become a mainstay on the backpacker scene because of the plenty of other attractions that it has. Ok, so these "attractions" are mostly nighttime based, but nonetheless there is something for everyone here. As well as the raucous "Pub Street" which boasts countless bars and pubs, there is a day market, 2 bustling night markets, a cinema and plenty of restaurants, from upmarket affairs to "happy" pizza joints. And of course, Happy Hours that run all day, every day...
As night falls, Pub Street becomes increasingly lively, and $1 foot massage stalls and fish pedicure stalls begin to pop up next to street food stands and tuk-tuk drivers incessantly touting for business. The price of beer becomes cheaper (some places charge as little of $.25 for a Angkor beer) and the market traders are ready to bargain hard. It;s a thriving, bustling town and despite being a little on the "western" side, I absolutely love Siem Reap. The Khmer people are friendly; interested and interesting. And they are so pure and genuine that a simple smile usually breaks the ice. And of course a smile and joke will go a long when when haggling in the market!
For my first taste of Khmer culture Siem Reap has been fantastic. It has everything a backpacker could want (minus a beach of course...). It's cheap, compact, packed with culture and the vibe is just perfect. I have a great feeling about the rest of my trip through this amazing country...!
Crossing the Border - Aryanaprathet to Poipet
1. If you are coming to Aryanaprathet (the Thai border town) from Bangkok, then there is absolutely NO need to book a pre-arranged minibus. Most travel agents on the Khao San Road will charge a small fortune to make the trip to the border, but in fact it is no more difficult (and significantly cheaper) if you do it yourself. Frequent departures from the northern Mo Chit bus station take only a few hours and prices start at around 260 baht on a comfortable coach. If you're lucky they might even throw a few snacks in to the deal too.
2. No matter how you arrive in Aryanaprathet, one of the first buildings that you will come across on the way to the border is the "Cambodian Consulate". IGNORE THIS BUILDING! It is NOT official. Yes, you can get a valid visa here, but it will cost you DOUBLE the price of visa at the official building further down the line. It is a rip off.
3. IGNORE ANYONE that offers to help you skip the queue for a fee. Sure, spend $20 to 'skip' the line if you want...but almost certainly you will still have to wait around at some point. Just be patient. These guys are out to scam you and generally can't get you any further along in the line. But of course they will take your dollars and feign ignorance (and a sudden lack of English language skill) when you chase them up on this.
4. Make sure you have a couple of passport photos with you already. If you don't, officials will charge anything from $3 upwards. And they won't even take your photo! It's simply a money-making racket.
5. Check the cost of the visa (dependent on nationality) prior to crossing. Cambodian visa officials are about as corrupt as they come, so visa prices can inexplicably inflate without any warning. At least if you have a ballpark figure, then you know what you are up against. Often there is nothing that you can do, but sometimes a bit of gentle "discussion" can work in your favour.
6. There are buses from Poipet (the border town in Cambodia) to Siem Reap for around $9. This is about as cheap as you will get.
7. Arrive as early as possible! The border closes early evening, and you definitely don;t want to be stuck in Poipet for longer than necessary. And by arriving early, you can avoid standing around in the blistering midday sun for too long.
Siem Reap
Where to Stay - Sweet Dreams Guest House (google it). Around $4 per room per night. Brilliant guest house in the Wat Bo Village area of town. Rooms are massive and super clean. Lively place, but peaceful at night and only 10 minute walk to the centre of town. Such a friendly guest house, run by the lovely Mr Ni and his sons. A real mix of long stay guests and backpackers. They can also arrange onwards travel, and have a tuk-tuk and bikes for hire.
Where/What to Eat - The area around Pub Street has tons of eating out options, ranging form western to international to traditional khmer food. If you find this a little toursity, then look for "local" food stands (anywhere with massive silver pots and pans laid). You can eat here for less than $1, for a full meal of Khmer curried meat and veg with rice. And its ususally the most delicious and authentic option. Otherwise food prices tend to start at $2-3 for basic noodle and rice dishes. Cambodia also has a big French influence, baguettes are available pretty much everywhere. Such a nice change if you've been alternating between rice and noodles for months!
Drinking - When in Cambodia,drink beer! Whether it's Angkor, Cambodia or Phnom Penh, they are dirt cheap and it's possible to get drunk on a few dollars, especially during $.25 happy hour. Cocktails are abundant too, and comparatively cheap. $1.25 Mojitos can be found in most bars around Pub Street. This is the place to be at night. There is a venue for everyone, from The Red Piano (upmarket) to The Temple Club (a sweaty dance-fest).
Getting Around - Siem Reap is compact enough that walking is the most convenient way to get around. If you want to live like a local then get on yer bike - available pretty much EVERYWHERE for $1 per day. If you're feeling lazy or are just too drunk then hire a tuk-tuk. Haggle hard though! It shouldn't cost more than $1-2 to get around town.
Banks - There are ATM's everywhere, although most of them charge a few dollars per transaction, which can quickly add up. The Canadia Bank, right in the centre of town, does NOT charge transaction fees, so make your withdrawals there. There is dual currency in operation here - American dollars and Cambodian Riels. ATM'S only dispense dollars, but you can pay everywhere in dollars, riels or a mixture of both. There are no coins, only notes. Riels are useful for small purchases, like bottles of water or snacks. 4000 riels is roughly $1.
The first part of the the trip is the overnight bus from Krabi to Bangkok, where my newly acquired robbery-paranoia means I barely sleep at all, and spend the majority of the night hugging my handbag and checking that the wad of cash I stuffed in my bra is still there. Thankfully my baht-filled bra is in tact in the morning!
Although I've never had any major disasters at border crossings I'm always a bit anxious about them, and even moreso when they are 'notorious' for being problematic, like the Aryanprathet to Poipet crossing that I am doing. I always panic that my name is going to appear on an Interpol list and I'll be swiftly deported. Or my washing-machine ruined passport will arouse too much suspicion. And of course, crossing land borders is a bit like going from one area of no-mans land to another area of no-mans land; there are dodgy people aplenty just waiting to relieve of you money, foul-tempered police storming around, black market money changers charging exorbitant commision rates and plenty of confused tourists wandering around looking lost.
A quick google search will tell you that the Thailand to Cambodia crossing ticks all of these boxes and then some. In the "Crossing the Border" section below I have listed some advice and tips for anyone about to make this crossing who doesn't want to succumb to the numerous scams and money-making rackets that trip up so many travellers.
Anyways, border business aside, Siem Reap in the north of the country is a well-worn travellers haunt, right next to the amazing temples of Angkor Wat. Despite a late night arrival (which is always a little dubious) I feel almost instantly happy to be in Cambodia. Although it's too early to tell exactly what and why, there is something immediately likeable about Siem Reap. I'm now with another solo female traveller who I met on the bus on the way here, and although it's close to midnight, the vibe of this little town is comfortable enough that both of us are pretty content to wander around with our backpacks looking for somewhere to stay. We eventually find an amazing little family run guest house, 10 minutes walk from the centre of town (aka Pub Street) where a massive room with 2 double beds costs us only $2 each per night. Seriously! That equates to about £1.20 per night. Unbelievable.
The main draw for travellers coming in to Siem Reap is Angkor Wat, the incredible (and deceptively vast) complex of temples that are spread out next to the town. There are a few ways to get to the temples, and which ever way you choose will probably depend on how adventurous/energetic you are feeling,and how much time you have. For people visiting the temples with a 1 day ticket, then negotiating a tuk-tuk ride is probably most beneficial. One full-day tuk-tuk hire can range in price massively so be prepared to haggle hard! We managed to bargain our driver down to $9 for the full day (the cheapest I have heard of to date), wheresas other were paying in excess of $20. People with a little more time and a little more interest in the temples might want to invest in a 3-day ticket. At $40, it's not cheap (especially by Cambodian terms), but it's absolutely the most worthwhile way to see the temples, and can be used on non-consecutive days. By opting for the 3 day ticket, you can afford to see at least one sunrise, one sunset, a lot more of the smaller, quieter and more obscure temples, and all at a far more leisurely pace. And of course, the most rewarding way to visit the temples is by bicycle. Starting at $1 per day for hire of old school Dutch-style bone-shakers, the landscape is flat enough that any level of ability or fitness can manage. Just take a sun-hat...
 |
| A very quiet temple... |
The temples at Angkor are arguably unrivalled in the world, and for good reason. The immensity of the whole complex is humbling, and the architecture is so intricate and on such a grand scale that it is almost unbelievable. Our 3 days there, although amazing and totally unforgettable, did have a few drawbacks, however....
1. Tourists! Ok, so I know I fall into this category too, but the sheer numbers of tourist visiting this place on a daily basis is verging on ridiculous! From colossal tour groups of Japanese (who pop up in every one of my pictures somewhere in the background, fingers splayed in the archetypal "v" sign) to rich Americans in minibuses (who only turn up to take the standard photos of sunrise at Angkor Wat then go back to their all-inclusive hotels for breakfast), there are hoardes of people everywhere. That's why it's definitely worth investing in a 3 day pass and seeing some of the smaller temples that are often quieter and much more peaceful.
2. Sellers/Hawkers. If you've already been to Angkor, then you'll know exactly what I mean. You can barely walk 2 meters without someone - usually a small child - trying to sell you something. From postcards to scarves to soft drinks, the calls of "please, only 1 dollaaar" will inevitably eventually grate. It's sad and of course you find yourself feeling pretty emotional about the plight of these kids and wanting to help, but buying a couple of fridge magnets is not the way. These kids are smart (when they find out your nationality they will usually impress you with facts and figures about your country or start speaking in your native tongue), and many do attend school already. So buying from them, or entertaining their often emotional pleas only encourages the 'begging' behaviour.
3. The heat! Cambodia is HOT! It may not be a major consideration to most, but it should be. Spending a full day walking around temples (many of which are fairly exposed) is exhausting, especially in direct or midday sunlight. Take water. And a hat. And don't forget, it's dusty too, so be prepared to turn the shower-water brown when you get back to your hostel...
 |
| Sunset from Sra Srang, Angkor |
Of course, Siem Reap isn't all about the temples. It's become a mainstay on the backpacker scene because of the plenty of other attractions that it has. Ok, so these "attractions" are mostly nighttime based, but nonetheless there is something for everyone here. As well as the raucous "Pub Street" which boasts countless bars and pubs, there is a day market, 2 bustling night markets, a cinema and plenty of restaurants, from upmarket affairs to "happy" pizza joints. And of course, Happy Hours that run all day, every day...
As night falls, Pub Street becomes increasingly lively, and $1 foot massage stalls and fish pedicure stalls begin to pop up next to street food stands and tuk-tuk drivers incessantly touting for business. The price of beer becomes cheaper (some places charge as little of $.25 for a Angkor beer) and the market traders are ready to bargain hard. It;s a thriving, bustling town and despite being a little on the "western" side, I absolutely love Siem Reap. The Khmer people are friendly; interested and interesting. And they are so pure and genuine that a simple smile usually breaks the ice. And of course a smile and joke will go a long when when haggling in the market!
For my first taste of Khmer culture Siem Reap has been fantastic. It has everything a backpacker could want (minus a beach of course...). It's cheap, compact, packed with culture and the vibe is just perfect. I have a great feeling about the rest of my trip through this amazing country...!
Crossing the Border - Aryanaprathet to Poipet
1. If you are coming to Aryanaprathet (the Thai border town) from Bangkok, then there is absolutely NO need to book a pre-arranged minibus. Most travel agents on the Khao San Road will charge a small fortune to make the trip to the border, but in fact it is no more difficult (and significantly cheaper) if you do it yourself. Frequent departures from the northern Mo Chit bus station take only a few hours and prices start at around 260 baht on a comfortable coach. If you're lucky they might even throw a few snacks in to the deal too.
2. No matter how you arrive in Aryanaprathet, one of the first buildings that you will come across on the way to the border is the "Cambodian Consulate". IGNORE THIS BUILDING! It is NOT official. Yes, you can get a valid visa here, but it will cost you DOUBLE the price of visa at the official building further down the line. It is a rip off.
3. IGNORE ANYONE that offers to help you skip the queue for a fee. Sure, spend $20 to 'skip' the line if you want...but almost certainly you will still have to wait around at some point. Just be patient. These guys are out to scam you and generally can't get you any further along in the line. But of course they will take your dollars and feign ignorance (and a sudden lack of English language skill) when you chase them up on this.
4. Make sure you have a couple of passport photos with you already. If you don't, officials will charge anything from $3 upwards. And they won't even take your photo! It's simply a money-making racket.
5. Check the cost of the visa (dependent on nationality) prior to crossing. Cambodian visa officials are about as corrupt as they come, so visa prices can inexplicably inflate without any warning. At least if you have a ballpark figure, then you know what you are up against. Often there is nothing that you can do, but sometimes a bit of gentle "discussion" can work in your favour.
6. There are buses from Poipet (the border town in Cambodia) to Siem Reap for around $9. This is about as cheap as you will get.
7. Arrive as early as possible! The border closes early evening, and you definitely don;t want to be stuck in Poipet for longer than necessary. And by arriving early, you can avoid standing around in the blistering midday sun for too long.
Siem Reap
Where to Stay - Sweet Dreams Guest House (google it). Around $4 per room per night. Brilliant guest house in the Wat Bo Village area of town. Rooms are massive and super clean. Lively place, but peaceful at night and only 10 minute walk to the centre of town. Such a friendly guest house, run by the lovely Mr Ni and his sons. A real mix of long stay guests and backpackers. They can also arrange onwards travel, and have a tuk-tuk and bikes for hire.
Where/What to Eat - The area around Pub Street has tons of eating out options, ranging form western to international to traditional khmer food. If you find this a little toursity, then look for "local" food stands (anywhere with massive silver pots and pans laid). You can eat here for less than $1, for a full meal of Khmer curried meat and veg with rice. And its ususally the most delicious and authentic option. Otherwise food prices tend to start at $2-3 for basic noodle and rice dishes. Cambodia also has a big French influence, baguettes are available pretty much everywhere. Such a nice change if you've been alternating between rice and noodles for months!
Drinking - When in Cambodia,drink beer! Whether it's Angkor, Cambodia or Phnom Penh, they are dirt cheap and it's possible to get drunk on a few dollars, especially during $.25 happy hour. Cocktails are abundant too, and comparatively cheap. $1.25 Mojitos can be found in most bars around Pub Street. This is the place to be at night. There is a venue for everyone, from The Red Piano (upmarket) to The Temple Club (a sweaty dance-fest).
Getting Around - Siem Reap is compact enough that walking is the most convenient way to get around. If you want to live like a local then get on yer bike - available pretty much EVERYWHERE for $1 per day. If you're feeling lazy or are just too drunk then hire a tuk-tuk. Haggle hard though! It shouldn't cost more than $1-2 to get around town.
Banks - There are ATM's everywhere, although most of them charge a few dollars per transaction, which can quickly add up. The Canadia Bank, right in the centre of town, does NOT charge transaction fees, so make your withdrawals there. There is dual currency in operation here - American dollars and Cambodian Riels. ATM'S only dispense dollars, but you can pay everywhere in dollars, riels or a mixture of both. There are no coins, only notes. Riels are useful for small purchases, like bottles of water or snacks. 4000 riels is roughly $1.
