After my sleepless last night in Leon, me and Sylvia have to get up and organised for the start of our epic bus journey to Guatemala. We are taking the Tica bus (a bit like Megabus, but a tiny bit more "luxurious"), and the journey will be divided in to 2 parts; Nicaragua to San Salvador, where we will spend the night, then San Salvador to Guatemala.
Typically, the first bus is late (could have really done with the extra time to sleep...I look and feel like a burst ball!), but it eventually arrives and we begin our journey, with the added comforts of movies being shown, food (ok, the bus stops and all the passengers are bought a Burger King!) and an on-board toilet...Fancy! My only complaint is that the lady sitting next to me is colossal and takes up half my seat too. I´m completely squashed in to a corner - really she should have bought 2 seats. Just sayin'. Oh - and while we're on the subject of complaints, I do have another. Part of the ceiling of the bus detaches and hits a man on the forehaead, slicing it open and turning the bus in to a relative blood-bath. So for the rest of the trip, I'm convinced we're all one pothole away from aids. Hepatitis at the least. Living on the edge!
In truth, the majority oo both our journeys are absolutely fine; the border crossings are smooth and relatively quick (and cheap!), the driver is only a partial maniac, and the scenery en route is beautiful. And luckily, no armed robberies or hijacks either. Bonus!
So we eventually arrive on the quaint and cobbled streets of Antigua, Guatemala's former capital. Overlooked by a volcano, and only about 1 hour from Guatemala City, this is the country's jewel in the tourist crown. It has a little something for everyone; markets, unbelievably beautiful colonial architecture, plenty of restaurants, galleries, shops and boutiques, an attractive range of festivals and it is in close proximity to loads of outdoor pursuits, like volcano climbing. Arguably on the main draws of Antigua over other cities in Guate is its relative safety. Of course it still suffers heavily, particularly from robberies and muggings (the standard "restrictions" apply; take a taxi after dark, no matter what the distance, avoid going off the beaten path etc) but no where near as much as the 45 murders average per week in Guatemala city. This little city actually feels safe.
After finding a hostel near the central park and the main market place ($6 per night; fairly cheap for such a touristic town, it's time to explore the city and start planning what to do here. I have found daily morning yoga classes that I'm going to take for a week, and Sylvia has decided to enrol in Spanish school, so we're anticipating on staying for at least a week. Ok, so Spanish school would obviously be infinitely more useful and productive than yoga school, but I've reached the point where I no longer care. NO HABLA ESPANOL. This isn't going to change overnight. It's merely a fact. What I can't already ask for (or point at), I don't need. Simple!
Our first exploration of the city is fruitful, to say the least. There are loads of other travellers here, and plenty of middle-aged and retired Americans (which makes me think that Antigua is like the Benidorm of the Americas...) The whole place is buzzing in preparation for the International Jazz and Theatre Festivals taking place, and for Santa Semana (Holy Week), which happens at the end of March, but whose festivities kick off in the weeks before.
So naturally, with so many tourists kicking about, the cream of the local freaks have come out to play. And me and Sylvia are given the pleasure of meeting one, after only about 20 minutes in the city. Just south of the main plaza, a sprightly little man approaches us and tries to sell us weed. When we politely decline, he launches in to a barrage of abuse ("Fuck you, motherfucker...you dont want to party? I can fuck anything I want to, bitches!" etc etc). So I helpfully suggest that he might like to try fucking himself, and this goes down like a lead balloon. It would almost be a scary moment if he wasn't struggling to hit the dizzy heights of 5 feet...
So it's off to a good start then, and we've successfully ingratiated ourselves to the locals already...
We call it an early night, in preparation for starting our classes the following day. And to be honest, my liver is crying out for a break after Leon. But a comfortable night of sleep it is not! Interspersed with irritating room-mates (not you Sylvia! :-p), dripping taps and a sharp night-time drop in temperature, our first night of Antigua-insomnia is just the start of things to come.
Hostels...simultaneously the bane and the joy of the travellers existence!
Tuesday, 13 March 2012
Tuesday, 6 March 2012
Leon, Nicaragua...Volcano Boarding, Drinking with Tramps and a lot of late night debauchery...
Just as I am about to leave Isla de Ometepe, I run in to Melvin, one half a Dutch couple that I have previously met in Granada. For the next few weeks, they're going their separeate ways, and his girfriend Sylvia is going to be in Leon...exactly where I'm headed! So my intention is to track Sylvia down in Leon and demand that she becomes my friend. Simple!
I leave the hostel super early (5.30m...) to catch the first chicken bus to the ferry terminal, and so begins the start of an epic day of travelling, which involves 3 chicken buses, a ferry, 2 taxis, a shuttle bus and a cycle rickshaw. Its arduous to say the lesat, but after a long day of travel, I finally arrive in Leon around 3pm. I check in to Bigfoots Hostel, a place that has been recommended to me by a few different people, and almost immediately make plans to party that night with Mary and Della, 2 (fucking mental!)Canadian girls I meet there. So after some dinner we hit up the hostel bar and I pretty much drink the place dry of mojitos. Afterwards its (obviously) time to showcase the karaoke skills.... Oh dear. Leon is definitely going to be bad for my health...!
And it is. Which is why there are a few stories from Leon that are definitely not fit for human consumption, more or less including;
* Debauchery with a HIB (hot Israeli babe)
* A taxi driver with a bag of coke
* A tiny salsa dancer called Antonio
* Drinking wine on the street with a local tramp
* Some of the trippiest weed Ive ever smoked
(More details of these are available on request, and granted on an individual basis...)
And now for the not-so-juicy bits. Leon itself is a wicked little city, and my favourite place in Nicaragua from what Ive seen With a university in the town, its oriented towards young people, has a great atmopshere and has plenty to do for every type of traveller. One day I spend wandering around, taking in the sights of the town; the market place, the parque central, the cathedral. Another day I take a chicken bus to the Las Penitas, the beach nearby (deserted! bliss!). And on my final full day there, I decide to take the plunge and do what most travellers come to Leon for in the first place. Volcano boarding.
Yes, volcano boarding. A bit like snowboarding, only sitting down, and sans snow. Instead, participants are expected to board down dunes of black volcanic ash. Really. After climbing to the top of (the very windy) Cerro Negro, about 45 minutes outside of the city, boarders don an uber sexy orange jumpsuit (I look like the hare krishnas hav finally got to me) and prepare to whizz down the volcano. The views from the top are stunning, and you can see for miles around. In fact the only thing you cant see is the bottom... Daunted? Me? Eh...aye!
So with a quick 5 minute explanation of how not to break every bone in your body and how to reach a top speed (previous boarders ahve been known to hit almosy 90 kph!), its time to go for it. Baws out, eyes closed, mind blank.
The adrenaline rush alone makes this an unforgettable experience, and although really exhilerating, its a lot harder than I anticipated. Half way down I wipe out, but luckily manage to correct myself without too much difficulty. After a maximum of 1 minute, Im at the bottom, covered in volcanic ash and ingrained with dust and dirt. And what speed was I going? Well, estimations suggest I managed to reach the dizzy heights of 20 kph. G-force eat your heart out! Luckily, most other people find it a tough experience too - in fact, the boys of the group, brimming with bravado (as well as rum, weed and coke) actually perform the worst! So not all is lost.
Back at the hostel, I indulge in the 2 free mojitos you get (probably for managing to survive!) and hook up with Sylvia, who is now also staying at Bigfoots. We have concoted a plan to travel to Guatemala together, so are going to celebrate our last night in Leon by going to a eletronic/techno night. Melvin has also arrived in town, so the 3 of us, along with a few others from the hostel, head along. Im not expecting much from the music, but actually its brilliant; not only is the techno perfect but ther are fire-throwers there for a bit of entertainemnt too.
Because me and Sylvia are leaving at 10am the next day, Id like to say that I went home and got a solid 8 hours sleep. But that would be a big fat lie. Instead, Im lucky if I manage 3.... Late night nosense. Tsk tsk. I can only hope the epic bus journey to Guatemala is going to be comfortable and allow me to catch up on a bit of sleep!
All in all, I have loved my time in Leon. Ok, so maybe a little too much partying (every night... thats ok though, right?), but mixed with plenty of fun, adventure, and a splash of culture.
So its adios Nicaragua, and hola Guatemala....!
I leave the hostel super early (5.30m...) to catch the first chicken bus to the ferry terminal, and so begins the start of an epic day of travelling, which involves 3 chicken buses, a ferry, 2 taxis, a shuttle bus and a cycle rickshaw. Its arduous to say the lesat, but after a long day of travel, I finally arrive in Leon around 3pm. I check in to Bigfoots Hostel, a place that has been recommended to me by a few different people, and almost immediately make plans to party that night with Mary and Della, 2 (fucking mental!)Canadian girls I meet there. So after some dinner we hit up the hostel bar and I pretty much drink the place dry of mojitos. Afterwards its (obviously) time to showcase the karaoke skills.... Oh dear. Leon is definitely going to be bad for my health...!
And it is. Which is why there are a few stories from Leon that are definitely not fit for human consumption, more or less including;
* Debauchery with a HIB (hot Israeli babe)
* A taxi driver with a bag of coke
* A tiny salsa dancer called Antonio
* Drinking wine on the street with a local tramp
* Some of the trippiest weed Ive ever smoked
(More details of these are available on request, and granted on an individual basis...)
And now for the not-so-juicy bits. Leon itself is a wicked little city, and my favourite place in Nicaragua from what Ive seen With a university in the town, its oriented towards young people, has a great atmopshere and has plenty to do for every type of traveller. One day I spend wandering around, taking in the sights of the town; the market place, the parque central, the cathedral. Another day I take a chicken bus to the Las Penitas, the beach nearby (deserted! bliss!). And on my final full day there, I decide to take the plunge and do what most travellers come to Leon for in the first place. Volcano boarding.
Yes, volcano boarding. A bit like snowboarding, only sitting down, and sans snow. Instead, participants are expected to board down dunes of black volcanic ash. Really. After climbing to the top of (the very windy) Cerro Negro, about 45 minutes outside of the city, boarders don an uber sexy orange jumpsuit (I look like the hare krishnas hav finally got to me) and prepare to whizz down the volcano. The views from the top are stunning, and you can see for miles around. In fact the only thing you cant see is the bottom... Daunted? Me? Eh...aye!
So with a quick 5 minute explanation of how not to break every bone in your body and how to reach a top speed (previous boarders ahve been known to hit almosy 90 kph!), its time to go for it. Baws out, eyes closed, mind blank.
The adrenaline rush alone makes this an unforgettable experience, and although really exhilerating, its a lot harder than I anticipated. Half way down I wipe out, but luckily manage to correct myself without too much difficulty. After a maximum of 1 minute, Im at the bottom, covered in volcanic ash and ingrained with dust and dirt. And what speed was I going? Well, estimations suggest I managed to reach the dizzy heights of 20 kph. G-force eat your heart out! Luckily, most other people find it a tough experience too - in fact, the boys of the group, brimming with bravado (as well as rum, weed and coke) actually perform the worst! So not all is lost.
Back at the hostel, I indulge in the 2 free mojitos you get (probably for managing to survive!) and hook up with Sylvia, who is now also staying at Bigfoots. We have concoted a plan to travel to Guatemala together, so are going to celebrate our last night in Leon by going to a eletronic/techno night. Melvin has also arrived in town, so the 3 of us, along with a few others from the hostel, head along. Im not expecting much from the music, but actually its brilliant; not only is the techno perfect but ther are fire-throwers there for a bit of entertainemnt too.
Because me and Sylvia are leaving at 10am the next day, Id like to say that I went home and got a solid 8 hours sleep. But that would be a big fat lie. Instead, Im lucky if I manage 3.... Late night nosense. Tsk tsk. I can only hope the epic bus journey to Guatemala is going to be comfortable and allow me to catch up on a bit of sleep!
All in all, I have loved my time in Leon. Ok, so maybe a little too much partying (every night... thats ok though, right?), but mixed with plenty of fun, adventure, and a splash of culture.
So its adios Nicaragua, and hola Guatemala....!
Sunday, 4 March 2012
Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua: Volcano Climbing, fiestas and an 8-legged room-mate...
I leave Granada after 2 nights there and decide to head to the Isla de Ometepe, a beautiful volcanic island set in the middle of Lake Nicaragua. It´s a few bus rides and a boat trip to get there, but definitely worth it; the island is really stunning with 2 volcanoes, peaceful villages and loads of outdoor fun to be had. And since my Spanish skills have improved nada since i´ve been in Granada (funny that...), it´s a blessing when I meet another Charlotte, from Norway, who speaks the language perfectly.
So, like a little monkey on her back, I go with Charlotte to the very serene Merida, on the smaller of the 2 islands, and we check in to Monkey Island Hostel (called so because of the abundance of howler monkeys here. shocker, i know!). I decide to stay in the dorm room, and although there are 11 beds, I´m the only person staying there. So naturally, after about 20 minutes my backpack is practically empty and I have every item strewn around the room as though it´s home.
Decide to get an early night, as me and Charlotte are going kayaking in the morning, from the beach by the hostel, down to the river and back. We´ve been promised sightings of Caiman, monkeys and all sorts of exotic birds (whose names escape me), but sadly we barely see a housefly. And it´s a tough trip actually, because the wind was so strong, but completely worth the sore arms just for the sheer beauty alone. The river estuary is especially nice, and reminds me a lot of canoeing the backwaters in Kerala. By the time we get back, I´m knackered and spend the rest of the day lazing in a hammock, reading and listening to music. Tough life!
The following day, it´s an early start for me and Charlotte, as we decide to hike Volcan Madera, the smaller of the 2 volcanoes on the island (allegedly the tougher though...just sayin´...) It´s an early start (7am...kill me now) but we set off nonetheless. It´s an ok hike to begin with, but soon it gets pretty tough underfoot, as the ground becomes rocky and tangled with knots and roots. And about half way up, the cloud cover becomes dense, and it´s unlikely that we´ll actually see anything when we get to the top. So....we turn back. Hey, a 4 hour hike is better than nothing! And I do feel somewhat virtuous for having done it.
Back in my room, I am just about to go for a shower, when my finely-tuned arachna-sense tells me that something is afoot. And I´m right. When I lift up my towel I see the BIGGEST 8-legged monstrosity I´ve ever encountered in my life. I know I say that every time I see a spider, but this one is seriously colossal. Imagine the legs of Gisele, crossed with the body of Beth Ditto. Grotesque altogheter. I try not to freak out too much (I only move to the bed furthest away from it), but have already resigned myself to the fact that I will be insomniac until it is removed. By someone else. But typically, every time someone comes in to the room to help me eradicate it, the little fucker is hiding. So now, I just look crazy! Oh well...
Over the weekend in the village, we discover that a fiesta is taking place, in honour of St Valentine apparently (2 weeks too late maybe...?!). So we head down late afternoon to watch the bull rodeo - not as cruel as bullfighting (in that they only bait the animals, rahter than kill them), but still not really the most pleasant thing to watch. We head back to the hostel for dinner, and by the time we go back to the night-tome party at 9pm, what had begun as a ´civilised` bull rodeo has descended in to utter chaos. The locals are wasted; passed out, fighting with each other and fighting with their own shadows. I feel as though I´m back in Glasgow actually! But I guess Saturday night rituals are the same the world over....
By the time we enter the dance floor ( I use this term very loosely...), we are surrounded by pack of local men, all over 40 (at least!), sweating profusely, and talking utter shite. They really are suffocating us though, so me and Charlotte decide to call it a night before someone gets hurt. And by someone, I mean before I knock one of them out).
Back at the room, el spider is still there, taunting me, so I have a very broken sleep and wake every couple of hours just to make sure I can see where he is. As long as I can see him....
Luckily me and Charlotte have a relaxing day planned for tomorrow, at the Ojo de Agua, a natural and ancient source of volacnic water. Apparently, bathing in it takes 5 years off your life. So I think I need to bottle this and take it home and bathe in permanently! Álthough a little toursity, it´s a lovely pool to swim in, and we spend most of the day there relaxing on sun loungers and reading before we catch the bus back to the hostel (did I mention it´s a tough life...?!)
I´m leaving Ometepe the following day, bound for the student town of Leon, so as tempting as it is to go to the final night of the fiesta - apparently the best night - I need to sleep! It´s a 4.45 am start in the morning....Boak!
So, like a little monkey on her back, I go with Charlotte to the very serene Merida, on the smaller of the 2 islands, and we check in to Monkey Island Hostel (called so because of the abundance of howler monkeys here. shocker, i know!). I decide to stay in the dorm room, and although there are 11 beds, I´m the only person staying there. So naturally, after about 20 minutes my backpack is practically empty and I have every item strewn around the room as though it´s home.
Decide to get an early night, as me and Charlotte are going kayaking in the morning, from the beach by the hostel, down to the river and back. We´ve been promised sightings of Caiman, monkeys and all sorts of exotic birds (whose names escape me), but sadly we barely see a housefly. And it´s a tough trip actually, because the wind was so strong, but completely worth the sore arms just for the sheer beauty alone. The river estuary is especially nice, and reminds me a lot of canoeing the backwaters in Kerala. By the time we get back, I´m knackered and spend the rest of the day lazing in a hammock, reading and listening to music. Tough life!
The following day, it´s an early start for me and Charlotte, as we decide to hike Volcan Madera, the smaller of the 2 volcanoes on the island (allegedly the tougher though...just sayin´...) It´s an early start (7am...kill me now) but we set off nonetheless. It´s an ok hike to begin with, but soon it gets pretty tough underfoot, as the ground becomes rocky and tangled with knots and roots. And about half way up, the cloud cover becomes dense, and it´s unlikely that we´ll actually see anything when we get to the top. So....we turn back. Hey, a 4 hour hike is better than nothing! And I do feel somewhat virtuous for having done it.
Back in my room, I am just about to go for a shower, when my finely-tuned arachna-sense tells me that something is afoot. And I´m right. When I lift up my towel I see the BIGGEST 8-legged monstrosity I´ve ever encountered in my life. I know I say that every time I see a spider, but this one is seriously colossal. Imagine the legs of Gisele, crossed with the body of Beth Ditto. Grotesque altogheter. I try not to freak out too much (I only move to the bed furthest away from it), but have already resigned myself to the fact that I will be insomniac until it is removed. By someone else. But typically, every time someone comes in to the room to help me eradicate it, the little fucker is hiding. So now, I just look crazy! Oh well...
Over the weekend in the village, we discover that a fiesta is taking place, in honour of St Valentine apparently (2 weeks too late maybe...?!). So we head down late afternoon to watch the bull rodeo - not as cruel as bullfighting (in that they only bait the animals, rahter than kill them), but still not really the most pleasant thing to watch. We head back to the hostel for dinner, and by the time we go back to the night-tome party at 9pm, what had begun as a ´civilised` bull rodeo has descended in to utter chaos. The locals are wasted; passed out, fighting with each other and fighting with their own shadows. I feel as though I´m back in Glasgow actually! But I guess Saturday night rituals are the same the world over....
By the time we enter the dance floor ( I use this term very loosely...), we are surrounded by pack of local men, all over 40 (at least!), sweating profusely, and talking utter shite. They really are suffocating us though, so me and Charlotte decide to call it a night before someone gets hurt. And by someone, I mean before I knock one of them out).
Back at the room, el spider is still there, taunting me, so I have a very broken sleep and wake every couple of hours just to make sure I can see where he is. As long as I can see him....
Luckily me and Charlotte have a relaxing day planned for tomorrow, at the Ojo de Agua, a natural and ancient source of volacnic water. Apparently, bathing in it takes 5 years off your life. So I think I need to bottle this and take it home and bathe in permanently! Álthough a little toursity, it´s a lovely pool to swim in, and we spend most of the day there relaxing on sun loungers and reading before we catch the bus back to the hostel (did I mention it´s a tough life...?!)
I´m leaving Ometepe the following day, bound for the student town of Leon, so as tempting as it is to go to the final night of the fiesta - apparently the best night - I need to sleep! It´s a 4.45 am start in the morning....Boak!
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