A Few observations...
At the moment I am tucked away high up in the Himalayas, and have the absolute luxury of silence and solitude - things which don't always come easy in India.
Ok, so I've had to sacrifice warmth in order to snatch this little piece of peace, but it's been absolutely worth it. If nothing else, I've had a lot of time to think here, and to reflect on India as a whole, and how it has slowly seeped under my skin over the past couple of years. So instead of writing about a place or an experience (Sikkim Himalayas blog coming soon!), I have tried my best to put in to words some observations/reflections about India generally, and what it means to me personally.
1. NOSINESS. India is seriously one of the nosiest countries I have ever been to. It's practically epidemic here, and getting worse. Particularly as a foreigner, it is virtually impossible to do anything without incurring the nosiness of the average Indian. When I bend down to tie my shoelace, by the time I look up there are 10 people peering down at me, brows furrowed. When I stop to ask one person directions in the street, all of a sudden there are 20 people circling me, all determined to be the-person-that-gave-the-tourist-the-right-directions.
Last week, when I went to the toilet, a little voice carried over the cublicle door.
"Madam, what are you doing?"
"Eh...."
And then silence, as though he was really waiting for an explanation, or a blow by blow account of The Pee 2014.
Then finally, "Oh yes Madam, please, continue."
So finally, I finish my pee in peace, but when I open the cubicle door I am met with a curiously smiling face, arm outstrectched, waiting to shake my hand. I look at this hopeful little face, incredulous, until he eventually cottons on and moves to let me wash my hands. Then, of course, a handshake and the obligatory 20 questions.
More often than not, the inherent nosiness can be a total pain in the arse. But on ocassion, it can be a real blessing too. Any problems, and there is always someone to assist or help.
2. CURIOUSITY. This is a friendlier offshoot of nosiness. India is an unapologetically curious nation. Everywhere you go, everything you do, is met with a barrage of questions.
"From which good country are you from Madam?"
"What is your job? And how much do you earn?"
"Where is your husband?" (quickly followed by a sympathetic, "Oh, why don't you have a husband?")
"Why are you alone? Don't you have any friends?"
Alongside relentless and repetitive questioning comes the obligatory "One photo please, madam," Indians love to take photos at the best of times, and even moreso if they can capture that special moment with a white stranger that they have accosted in the street. Pretty much every tourist gets asked for photos, and I must be in countless family albums across the subcontinent. With grinning aunties, nervous children, frail grandmothers, burkha-clad women, the family goat. Parents have even thrust their newborn babies in my arms, wriggling around, looking up at me completely bewildered. I'm not quite sure what they tell their relatives and friends when they get home after a day sightseeing... "Yeah yeah, I saw the Taj Mahal, it was fine. But look - I got my picture taken with a tourist! A white tourist!"
I can't complain though - this could be a potential business opportunity should I run out of money on my travels. 10 rupees per photo. I could easily fund my way around India like this for at least a year.
One final thing to note: "One photo" is NEVER one photo. This translates as at least 10, and a lot of pushing and shoving (ususally by grown men), to be the person to stand next to the tourist.
Sometimes curiousity can be misconstrued. People here tend to stare A LOT and don't see this is as offensive. You learn quickly to deal with the stares, as most are simple curiousity. But sometimes, when alone at night on a train or walking down a street, a group of men will stare and i really don't think they realise how intimidating they are.
3. MANNERS. Ah, manners, Or rather, lack thereof. I completely understand that this is simply down to cultural difference, but sometimes I find myself completely astounded by the lack of common respect for one another. In queues at the railway station, people will push and shove one another out of the way, regardless of who has been waiting the longest. Bus journeys have left me black and blue, simply due to overcrowding, and far too many people cramming in. And everyone does it - from little kids to seemingly frail old ladies with walking sticks. It's every man for himself, so I suggest sharpening your elbows and getting on wth it!
And speaking of manners... never before have I heard such a nation of proud farters, burpers, spitters and phlegm-hawkers as India. It's part of the daily ritual here, and again, everyone does it. Waking up on the train after an overnight journey is typically to a chorus of farts, burps, grunts and phlegmy coughs. In a restaurant, it isnt that uncommon to hear someone let rip. Old men spit arrogantly in the street. So do old ladies. It's just part of life here.
4. HYGIENE. I feel that India gets a pretty bad rap for hygiene - unfairly so. It is billed as a nation where people eat with their hands, and squat down to use the toilet. And while this is true, there is perfectly justifiable logic behind it all. Wash your hands thoroughly before you eat, and then you know exactly how clean your "utensils" are, and where they have been. But go in to a restaurant and use the knife and fork they provide...well, who knows how clean they really are? Same goes for greeting someone. Shaking hands is a no no - who knows where the others persons grubby wee paws have been? Instead, say hello with hands in prayer position.
When it comes to drinking, you will NEVER see an Indian touch their lips to a bottle, glass or cup (unless it is a hot drink). They are freakishly conscious about this. Bottles of water can be shared and passed around many people, without the worry of spreading germs. I have tried to drink this way, but I usually end up with water all over my chin. And let us not forget the marvellous invention that is the squat toilet. The first time I used one, in Mumbai Airport about 2 years ago, I nearly cried. I was aghast at having to peel my jeans off my sweaty legs and squat to pee. How undignified! Now I love a squat toilet, and would go as far as to say that I prefer them over western toilets. Why? Because my bum doesn't need to touch the seat. Beacuse I dont need to touch anything. Simple! And of course by "manually" flushing the toilet using a bucket, you use a lot less water. Hygienic AND environmentally friendly.
Using a bucket of hot water to have a shower is also pretty common here, as sometimes hot water is in limited supply. I've grown to love a good old bucket shower. Fill a big bucket with hot water, and use a smaller bucket to shower the water over you. Surprisingly effective, and and efficient washing at it's best.
5. PRONUNCIATON. Specifically of my name. I find the Indian confusion over/pronunciation of Charlotte so endearing. Most people find it really difficult to get to grips with, and over the past couple of years I have been called everyhting from Silent to Salad. My absolute personal favourite has to be the man in the Sivananda Ashram who genuinely thought my name was Chocolate. I tried to set him straight but to no avail. This turned out to work in my favour, because every day for a week he would bring me little contraband sweets and chocolates and cakes, while laughing happily to himself...."oh, her name is Chocolate..."
6.THE ABILITY TO SLEEP THROUGH ANYTHING: This is a skill that Indians are blessed to be born with, and it never fails to amaze, me. India is NOISY. Seriously NOISY. Even villages don't escape the persistent racket of car horns, traffic, people, animals,... So it is nothng short of incredible how people can sleep through this constant noise. On trains in cars, laid out on the pavement. Im completely in awe of this. One loud snore on the train and I am WIDE AWAKE, meditating on this noise for hours.
7. THE HEAD WOBBLE. One my favourite things, probabaly ever. If you aren't familiar with the Indian Head Wobble, then let me elaborate. It's is the physical equivalent of the French exression "comme ci, comme ca." Quite simply, the head wobbles from side to side, as though the neck is actually a coiled spring. The Head Wobble is used all the time, and has many different meanings depending on the context. Although I love the Head Wobble, it can be a source of confusion at times, particularly when asking for directions. For example:
ME: "Excuse me, is this the way to the temple?"
OLD MAN: *wobbles head with serene smile on his face*
ME: "Eh....ok. So is the temple here then?"
OLD MAN: *wobbles head some more*
IF YOU DON'T KNOW, THEN JUST SAY! Instead, i walk 3 miles in the wrong direction, on the advice of 2 head wobbles.
Nonetheless, the head wobble is a skill, and for me, a source of great entertainmenty. Not just anyone can do it. I'm in practice.
8. HOLDING HANDS: Ok, so it's no great secret that India is a conservative country when it comes to sexuality - particularly homosexuality - so that's why it comes as a bit of a shock to people when they first arrive and see scores of young men casually wandering about holding hands. The first time I saw this, I thought I was witnessing a gay pride event. But then it was explained to me that men holdng hands is simply a sign of brotherhood. It's very common, and can be seen all over India. Couples - a man and a woman - holding hands, however, is almost unseen. Occassionally in bigger cities, but it really is a rarity.
9. SHOPPING ETIQUETTE: Again, it is no secret that India is a country in love with shopping and markets, and this is one of the reasons I love it. Bit of bargaining, drink chai with the shopkeepers, purchase something for a knockdown price. Brilliant. But n occassion, I absolutely DETEST the shopping experience. The pressure to "just look in my shop" is intense.
"Madam, just look"..."Madam, cheap as chips"..."Hey, white chicken, cheaper here than Primark"...
And once you're in, it is impossible to browse freely. There is always someone looking over your shoulder, lurking around, placing things under your nose, demanding that you try things on. And dont even think about enquiring about the price. As soon as you ask, that's it. They've got you. Let the haggling begin. And the next thing you know, you've bought 10 of the same anklet.
Supermarkets are just as bad - if not worse. I have identified the problem as acute overemployment. In every aisle, there are 3 or 4 women, just waiting to pounce. To help you pick out handcream. Or a razor. Or an apple. Or tampons. It is frustrating to say the least. Ok, so it's great that so many people have jobs, but I really don'y want or need assistance when it comes to choosing sanitary products.
10. PLASTIC. India has a tragic love affair with plastic. It's depressing to say the least. Bottles, crockery, cutlery, toys, household goods...its EVERYWHERE! Not only is it UGLY, but is causes a lot of pollution and litter. And how does India deal with litter? It burns it, of course. The smell of burning plastic isn't nearly as nice as that of incense or sandalwood. (Marginally better than the reek of a train toilet though...)
11. SUGAR. India's greatest love (other than Sachin Tendulkar) is undoubtedly sugar. It is a nation of sugar junkies and I'm sure the whole place would grind to a halt in the absence of sugar. Tea, chocolate, biscuits, sweets, cakes, lassis, ice-cream...sugar is EVERYWHERE. India has a super sweet tooth. It's little wonder that waistlines are increasing and there is a huge diabetes problem.
12. STATING THE OBVIOUS: This is something else that I find really endearing. Pretty much every Indian that I meet has this brilliant knack for stating the obvious. I will be looking at a fruit stall, and someone will appear over and say, completely earnestly, "Bananas, madam." This happens all the time. Most of the time I say thankyou, yes, oh bananas, really? But when a nosy little man takes it upon himself to follow me around the market for an hour, helpfully pointing out the chickens and the carrots and the sheep, it can grate a little...
13. WOMEN: Attitudes to women here are still pretty abhorrent. In bigger cities, women are are fairly liberated and can live freely. But for many, restricted and repressed lives are the norm. They marry, have kids and look after the home and their family. End of.
Since I arrived to India, I have been buying a newspapers most days, and the stories of rape and sexual assault are neverending and absolutely horrific. Most days, there is another tale of a brutal gangrape, a disembowelled body, a child violated and burned to death. Victims of rape made pariahs and forced out of their homes. Perpetrators given paltry jail sentences and fines that equate to a hudred quid. Tiny articles, tucked away at the back of the newspaper.
This is a hug issue across the country just now - far too big and complex for me to even attempt to navigate.
15: POVERTY/BEGGING. Everyone who comes to India cannot help but encounter the poverty here at some point, and frequently on a daily basis, beggars will approach looking for money or food. Sometimes 20 or more times a day, I will be asked for money. To give to everyone is virtually impossible, and is doing more harm than good. While it's pretty horrific seeing street kids begging for a rupee or 2, or a morsel of food, this problem is so widespread in India that its virtually impossible to know where to start. Somewhere along the line, you must detach yourself. This may sound callous or hard-hearted, and I don't mean it to, but it is necessary. If you don't think so then try travelling a few months in India and then see how you feel.
One thing I do find unacceptable though, is the authorities treatment of beggars - particularly child beggars. On a few ocassions I've seen poliecemen beat and hit kids with the long bamboo canes that they carry here. It's cruel and totally unjustified.
16: TRAINS. Good old India Rail. Where delays of 20 hours are nothing unusual. I've just been delayed 24 hours, stranded overnight at the shittiest shit hole train station in the arse end of nowhere in West Bengal. Stuck in a "ladies waiting room" (full of men), that smells repugnant. But with no other option, I roll out my yoga mat and sleep on the floor...it's freezing cold and very grubby, but it's a bed for the night, so i am grateful for that at least!
But ridiculous delays aside, the railway network is actually pretty decent. It's super cheap (15 hour journeys that cost 3 quid), full of interesting characters, and is probably the safest way to travel around the country. If you disregard the frequent derailments and fires, that is...
17: HOSPITALITY: I'd like ths to be my parting note for now. Indian hospitality is second to none. People here are really generous and will go out of their way for you. If you are invited to eat with a family, they won't let you leave until they are satisifed that you are on the verge of vomiting. Seconds, thirds...they will fill your plate higher and higher desite pleas and protests. Suck it up and eat! Even when people have very little, they will still exercise the kindest of hospitality. A couple of days ago, a Sikkimese family of 6, living in a 2-roomed shack invited me for tea and sweets. They had barely a rupee to rub together, but made me feel so welcome that I could have cried.
So these are just a few of the things I have noticed or experienced since trravelling in India. It's a country that (frequently) defies logic, can be infuriating and is intense to the extreme. But somehwere, somehow, it casts a spell on you. You are hooked. You have this country under your skin. Even when you are bent double, vomiting furiously in to the toilet and regretting the biryani you ate on the train, you know that no where else will ever come close to the magic of this country.
At the moment I am tucked away high up in the Himalayas, and have the absolute luxury of silence and solitude - things which don't always come easy in India.
Ok, so I've had to sacrifice warmth in order to snatch this little piece of peace, but it's been absolutely worth it. If nothing else, I've had a lot of time to think here, and to reflect on India as a whole, and how it has slowly seeped under my skin over the past couple of years. So instead of writing about a place or an experience (Sikkim Himalayas blog coming soon!), I have tried my best to put in to words some observations/reflections about India generally, and what it means to me personally.
1. NOSINESS. India is seriously one of the nosiest countries I have ever been to. It's practically epidemic here, and getting worse. Particularly as a foreigner, it is virtually impossible to do anything without incurring the nosiness of the average Indian. When I bend down to tie my shoelace, by the time I look up there are 10 people peering down at me, brows furrowed. When I stop to ask one person directions in the street, all of a sudden there are 20 people circling me, all determined to be the-person-that-gave-the-tourist-the-right-directions.
Last week, when I went to the toilet, a little voice carried over the cublicle door.
"Madam, what are you doing?"
"Eh...."
And then silence, as though he was really waiting for an explanation, or a blow by blow account of The Pee 2014.
Then finally, "Oh yes Madam, please, continue."
So finally, I finish my pee in peace, but when I open the cubicle door I am met with a curiously smiling face, arm outstrectched, waiting to shake my hand. I look at this hopeful little face, incredulous, until he eventually cottons on and moves to let me wash my hands. Then, of course, a handshake and the obligatory 20 questions.
More often than not, the inherent nosiness can be a total pain in the arse. But on ocassion, it can be a real blessing too. Any problems, and there is always someone to assist or help.
2. CURIOUSITY. This is a friendlier offshoot of nosiness. India is an unapologetically curious nation. Everywhere you go, everything you do, is met with a barrage of questions.
"From which good country are you from Madam?"
"What is your job? And how much do you earn?"
"Where is your husband?" (quickly followed by a sympathetic, "Oh, why don't you have a husband?")
"Why are you alone? Don't you have any friends?"
Alongside relentless and repetitive questioning comes the obligatory "One photo please, madam," Indians love to take photos at the best of times, and even moreso if they can capture that special moment with a white stranger that they have accosted in the street. Pretty much every tourist gets asked for photos, and I must be in countless family albums across the subcontinent. With grinning aunties, nervous children, frail grandmothers, burkha-clad women, the family goat. Parents have even thrust their newborn babies in my arms, wriggling around, looking up at me completely bewildered. I'm not quite sure what they tell their relatives and friends when they get home after a day sightseeing... "Yeah yeah, I saw the Taj Mahal, it was fine. But look - I got my picture taken with a tourist! A white tourist!"
I can't complain though - this could be a potential business opportunity should I run out of money on my travels. 10 rupees per photo. I could easily fund my way around India like this for at least a year.
One final thing to note: "One photo" is NEVER one photo. This translates as at least 10, and a lot of pushing and shoving (ususally by grown men), to be the person to stand next to the tourist.
Sometimes curiousity can be misconstrued. People here tend to stare A LOT and don't see this is as offensive. You learn quickly to deal with the stares, as most are simple curiousity. But sometimes, when alone at night on a train or walking down a street, a group of men will stare and i really don't think they realise how intimidating they are.
3. MANNERS. Ah, manners, Or rather, lack thereof. I completely understand that this is simply down to cultural difference, but sometimes I find myself completely astounded by the lack of common respect for one another. In queues at the railway station, people will push and shove one another out of the way, regardless of who has been waiting the longest. Bus journeys have left me black and blue, simply due to overcrowding, and far too many people cramming in. And everyone does it - from little kids to seemingly frail old ladies with walking sticks. It's every man for himself, so I suggest sharpening your elbows and getting on wth it!
And speaking of manners... never before have I heard such a nation of proud farters, burpers, spitters and phlegm-hawkers as India. It's part of the daily ritual here, and again, everyone does it. Waking up on the train after an overnight journey is typically to a chorus of farts, burps, grunts and phlegmy coughs. In a restaurant, it isnt that uncommon to hear someone let rip. Old men spit arrogantly in the street. So do old ladies. It's just part of life here.
4. HYGIENE. I feel that India gets a pretty bad rap for hygiene - unfairly so. It is billed as a nation where people eat with their hands, and squat down to use the toilet. And while this is true, there is perfectly justifiable logic behind it all. Wash your hands thoroughly before you eat, and then you know exactly how clean your "utensils" are, and where they have been. But go in to a restaurant and use the knife and fork they provide...well, who knows how clean they really are? Same goes for greeting someone. Shaking hands is a no no - who knows where the others persons grubby wee paws have been? Instead, say hello with hands in prayer position.
When it comes to drinking, you will NEVER see an Indian touch their lips to a bottle, glass or cup (unless it is a hot drink). They are freakishly conscious about this. Bottles of water can be shared and passed around many people, without the worry of spreading germs. I have tried to drink this way, but I usually end up with water all over my chin. And let us not forget the marvellous invention that is the squat toilet. The first time I used one, in Mumbai Airport about 2 years ago, I nearly cried. I was aghast at having to peel my jeans off my sweaty legs and squat to pee. How undignified! Now I love a squat toilet, and would go as far as to say that I prefer them over western toilets. Why? Because my bum doesn't need to touch the seat. Beacuse I dont need to touch anything. Simple! And of course by "manually" flushing the toilet using a bucket, you use a lot less water. Hygienic AND environmentally friendly.
Using a bucket of hot water to have a shower is also pretty common here, as sometimes hot water is in limited supply. I've grown to love a good old bucket shower. Fill a big bucket with hot water, and use a smaller bucket to shower the water over you. Surprisingly effective, and and efficient washing at it's best.
5. PRONUNCIATON. Specifically of my name. I find the Indian confusion over/pronunciation of Charlotte so endearing. Most people find it really difficult to get to grips with, and over the past couple of years I have been called everyhting from Silent to Salad. My absolute personal favourite has to be the man in the Sivananda Ashram who genuinely thought my name was Chocolate. I tried to set him straight but to no avail. This turned out to work in my favour, because every day for a week he would bring me little contraband sweets and chocolates and cakes, while laughing happily to himself...."oh, her name is Chocolate..."
6.THE ABILITY TO SLEEP THROUGH ANYTHING: This is a skill that Indians are blessed to be born with, and it never fails to amaze, me. India is NOISY. Seriously NOISY. Even villages don't escape the persistent racket of car horns, traffic, people, animals,... So it is nothng short of incredible how people can sleep through this constant noise. On trains in cars, laid out on the pavement. Im completely in awe of this. One loud snore on the train and I am WIDE AWAKE, meditating on this noise for hours.
7. THE HEAD WOBBLE. One my favourite things, probabaly ever. If you aren't familiar with the Indian Head Wobble, then let me elaborate. It's is the physical equivalent of the French exression "comme ci, comme ca." Quite simply, the head wobbles from side to side, as though the neck is actually a coiled spring. The Head Wobble is used all the time, and has many different meanings depending on the context. Although I love the Head Wobble, it can be a source of confusion at times, particularly when asking for directions. For example:
ME: "Excuse me, is this the way to the temple?"
OLD MAN: *wobbles head with serene smile on his face*
ME: "Eh....ok. So is the temple here then?"
OLD MAN: *wobbles head some more*
IF YOU DON'T KNOW, THEN JUST SAY! Instead, i walk 3 miles in the wrong direction, on the advice of 2 head wobbles.
Nonetheless, the head wobble is a skill, and for me, a source of great entertainmenty. Not just anyone can do it. I'm in practice.
8. HOLDING HANDS: Ok, so it's no great secret that India is a conservative country when it comes to sexuality - particularly homosexuality - so that's why it comes as a bit of a shock to people when they first arrive and see scores of young men casually wandering about holding hands. The first time I saw this, I thought I was witnessing a gay pride event. But then it was explained to me that men holdng hands is simply a sign of brotherhood. It's very common, and can be seen all over India. Couples - a man and a woman - holding hands, however, is almost unseen. Occassionally in bigger cities, but it really is a rarity.
9. SHOPPING ETIQUETTE: Again, it is no secret that India is a country in love with shopping and markets, and this is one of the reasons I love it. Bit of bargaining, drink chai with the shopkeepers, purchase something for a knockdown price. Brilliant. But n occassion, I absolutely DETEST the shopping experience. The pressure to "just look in my shop" is intense.
"Madam, just look"..."Madam, cheap as chips"..."Hey, white chicken, cheaper here than Primark"...
And once you're in, it is impossible to browse freely. There is always someone looking over your shoulder, lurking around, placing things under your nose, demanding that you try things on. And dont even think about enquiring about the price. As soon as you ask, that's it. They've got you. Let the haggling begin. And the next thing you know, you've bought 10 of the same anklet.
Supermarkets are just as bad - if not worse. I have identified the problem as acute overemployment. In every aisle, there are 3 or 4 women, just waiting to pounce. To help you pick out handcream. Or a razor. Or an apple. Or tampons. It is frustrating to say the least. Ok, so it's great that so many people have jobs, but I really don'y want or need assistance when it comes to choosing sanitary products.
10. PLASTIC. India has a tragic love affair with plastic. It's depressing to say the least. Bottles, crockery, cutlery, toys, household goods...its EVERYWHERE! Not only is it UGLY, but is causes a lot of pollution and litter. And how does India deal with litter? It burns it, of course. The smell of burning plastic isn't nearly as nice as that of incense or sandalwood. (Marginally better than the reek of a train toilet though...)
11. SUGAR. India's greatest love (other than Sachin Tendulkar) is undoubtedly sugar. It is a nation of sugar junkies and I'm sure the whole place would grind to a halt in the absence of sugar. Tea, chocolate, biscuits, sweets, cakes, lassis, ice-cream...sugar is EVERYWHERE. India has a super sweet tooth. It's little wonder that waistlines are increasing and there is a huge diabetes problem.
12. STATING THE OBVIOUS: This is something else that I find really endearing. Pretty much every Indian that I meet has this brilliant knack for stating the obvious. I will be looking at a fruit stall, and someone will appear over and say, completely earnestly, "Bananas, madam." This happens all the time. Most of the time I say thankyou, yes, oh bananas, really? But when a nosy little man takes it upon himself to follow me around the market for an hour, helpfully pointing out the chickens and the carrots and the sheep, it can grate a little...
13. WOMEN: Attitudes to women here are still pretty abhorrent. In bigger cities, women are are fairly liberated and can live freely. But for many, restricted and repressed lives are the norm. They marry, have kids and look after the home and their family. End of.
Since I arrived to India, I have been buying a newspapers most days, and the stories of rape and sexual assault are neverending and absolutely horrific. Most days, there is another tale of a brutal gangrape, a disembowelled body, a child violated and burned to death. Victims of rape made pariahs and forced out of their homes. Perpetrators given paltry jail sentences and fines that equate to a hudred quid. Tiny articles, tucked away at the back of the newspaper.
This is a hug issue across the country just now - far too big and complex for me to even attempt to navigate.
15: POVERTY/BEGGING. Everyone who comes to India cannot help but encounter the poverty here at some point, and frequently on a daily basis, beggars will approach looking for money or food. Sometimes 20 or more times a day, I will be asked for money. To give to everyone is virtually impossible, and is doing more harm than good. While it's pretty horrific seeing street kids begging for a rupee or 2, or a morsel of food, this problem is so widespread in India that its virtually impossible to know where to start. Somewhere along the line, you must detach yourself. This may sound callous or hard-hearted, and I don't mean it to, but it is necessary. If you don't think so then try travelling a few months in India and then see how you feel.
One thing I do find unacceptable though, is the authorities treatment of beggars - particularly child beggars. On a few ocassions I've seen poliecemen beat and hit kids with the long bamboo canes that they carry here. It's cruel and totally unjustified.
16: TRAINS. Good old India Rail. Where delays of 20 hours are nothing unusual. I've just been delayed 24 hours, stranded overnight at the shittiest shit hole train station in the arse end of nowhere in West Bengal. Stuck in a "ladies waiting room" (full of men), that smells repugnant. But with no other option, I roll out my yoga mat and sleep on the floor...it's freezing cold and very grubby, but it's a bed for the night, so i am grateful for that at least!
But ridiculous delays aside, the railway network is actually pretty decent. It's super cheap (15 hour journeys that cost 3 quid), full of interesting characters, and is probably the safest way to travel around the country. If you disregard the frequent derailments and fires, that is...
17: HOSPITALITY: I'd like ths to be my parting note for now. Indian hospitality is second to none. People here are really generous and will go out of their way for you. If you are invited to eat with a family, they won't let you leave until they are satisifed that you are on the verge of vomiting. Seconds, thirds...they will fill your plate higher and higher desite pleas and protests. Suck it up and eat! Even when people have very little, they will still exercise the kindest of hospitality. A couple of days ago, a Sikkimese family of 6, living in a 2-roomed shack invited me for tea and sweets. They had barely a rupee to rub together, but made me feel so welcome that I could have cried.
So these are just a few of the things I have noticed or experienced since trravelling in India. It's a country that (frequently) defies logic, can be infuriating and is intense to the extreme. But somehwere, somehow, it casts a spell on you. You are hooked. You have this country under your skin. Even when you are bent double, vomiting furiously in to the toilet and regretting the biryani you ate on the train, you know that no where else will ever come close to the magic of this country.
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