India is the first place I've ever been to twice. Everywhere else I have been has been a solo, single visit. But something about India, since the day I left, has compelled me to return. The people, the place, the noises, the smells, the culture - all of it is so alien, so exotic and unusual that I can't help but remain totally spellbound by it.
So 2 years later, here I am, back at my original starting point, Mumbai. I feel I owe this city an apology though - I was unfairly harsh on it the last time I was here. Ok, so it's pretty overwhelming, but not nearly as daunting as I recall. Yes, it's busy, frantic, noisy, ocassionally smelly and a little dirty, but therein lies the charm. Seriously! So Mumbai, I'm sorry. I take it all back.
From the airport, I take a prepaid taxi to Fort, where my hostel is, which costs Rs 590 (about 6 pounds). Considering the trip takes 2 hours (allowing for the hectic, relentless traffic and the driver stopping to ask for directions a few times), I think this is a pretty good deal. It's evening time, and still pretty hot and humid, but it's not nearly as oppressive as I'd anticipated. I'm sweaty, but not shamefully so. By the time I arrive to the hostel, it's 9pm, and I can figure out if I am tired or not. In this situation, a beer is always useful, so I ditch my backpack and head to Cafe Universal at the end of the street, where I have a drink with a Xima and Shine, who are also staying in the hostel.
After a restless night of sleep (I guess it will take me a few days to readjust to the warm nights and constant noise), I get up the following morning and head on a tour of the slums with Xima. I'm not usually a fan of organised tours, but going with a local guide is pretty much the best way to the Dharavi slum. Since it's the 3rd largest in the world, going it alone more or less guarantees getting lost. So me, Xima an Austrian couple and our guide (who has lived in the slum all his life) head off in the morning, taking the local train to reach Dharavi.
I'm not quite sure what I expected really, but it certainly wasn't what we saw there. The word slum conjures images of desolation, poverty and misery - the type of living reminisecent of a tear-jerker Oxfam advert. But Dharavi (where Slumdog Millionnaire was filmed), is anything but. It's progressive, home to multitude of booming industries and has every type of amenity imaginable - clinics, banks, shops, restaurants, schools. There are even private schools there!
Spread across about 550 acres, Dharavi is a cramped, ramshackle affair, connected by claustrophobic, labyrinthine alleyways, patches of wasteground and busy roads. It is densely populated (potentially housing up to 1 million) and the toilet facilities are communal, with thousands sharing the scarce bathrooms. Under the patch-work concrete streets there are sewage channels, full to the brim (by the end of the day I completely regret wearng flipflops; my feet are definitely toxic!). Huge mounds of rubbish dominate areas of wasteland, and despite the stench and abundance of flies, they provide recreational space for the local kids.
On of the most incredible aspects of slum-life is the sheer level of industry that exists. Huge scale operations are in place - from soap-making to leather manufacturing and plastic recycling to food production - the slum really does it all. It is organised, efficient and lucrative, and most importantly, provides a steady source of income for thousands of people. Behind tiny, curtained doors down a dark, quiet alleyways, it is likely that there is a factory of some sort, where people work round the clock.
Probably the most 'admirable' aspect of the slum (I mean that in the least patronising way possible), is the fact that everyone and everyhthing there co-exists, seemingly hassle free. Rats, chickens, goats, stray dogs and skinny flea-ridden cats wander around, seemingly in harmony with the people living there- a diverse mix of Hindus, Muslims, Christians, Gujaratis, businessmen, Rajasthanis, ...the list goes on. The slums seems to be a very inclusive place, and there is a tangible sense of community. People seem happy. The children are content. This is large-scale communal living that really really works.
Mid afternoon, we leave the slum and head back to Fort. It's getting a bit hot and uncomfortable, so me and Xima head to a local cafeteria for lunch - rice, chapatis and various unidentified sauces and dips, washed down with hot, sweet chai. At about 50p, its pretty much ideal. By the time we're finished, it's ideal walking temperature again, so we wander down to the Gateway of Mumbai, probably one of the most tourist-oriented parts of town. It's extremely busy, and we are constantly surrounded by peple asking for photos, so after 10 minutes of duly obliging, we abandon ship and instead head for spacious avenue of Marine Drive for sunset, where we sit on the wall by the sea, people-watching and chatting. It's a breezy night, and ideal for taking in all the sights, sounds and smells of Mumbai. Chai-sellers stroll past (purposefully shouting "chai, chai, chai"), the relentless sound of car horns soon becomes a comforting, background noise and every so often, the smell of incense, or spices (or piss, unfortunately!) will catch my attention.
It's been a beautiful reintroduction to Mumbai, but already I am craving a little peace, so tomorrow night it's off to Goa on the night train. A few days on the beach sounds pretty good right now...
MUMBAI
WHERE TO STAY: Traveller's Inn, Fort. Dorm rooms from Rs 500 per night. Still the best deal in Mumbai, by a mile. Friendly, helpful staff, clean, spacious rooms and an excellent location. Only 10 minutes walk to Mumbai CST (train station).
SLUM TOUR: We paid Rs 650 for a half day with Mystical Mumbai. Highly recommended!
WHERE TO EAT: Every 2nd building is a restaurant, canteen or cafeteria. Food is super-cheap here, so try to avoid the tourist trap places/chain restaurants, where prices can be double or triple. Curry dishes from 50p upwards, chai for about 5p, chapatis for about 7p. Bottled water about 20p.
GETTING AROUND: The local train network is cheap and efficient, if a little crowded. You have a matter of seconds to exit the train when it stops, so be fast! Tickets fom Rs 20. Taxis are widely availble, and prices are negotiable!
Train to Goa is a sleeper train. Try to book in advance to avoid waiting lists. Journey time is around 10 hours, and I paid Rs 341 for a Sleeper seat (around 3 pounds 50).
There are banks, ATM's kiosks and chemists in abundance in Mumbai, selling everything imaginable. I stocked up on sleeping pills for the train. 10 diazepam for Rs 100 (1 pound).
(Unfortunately, I dont seem to be able to upload pictures just now...am working on it but dont hold your breath!)
So 2 years later, here I am, back at my original starting point, Mumbai. I feel I owe this city an apology though - I was unfairly harsh on it the last time I was here. Ok, so it's pretty overwhelming, but not nearly as daunting as I recall. Yes, it's busy, frantic, noisy, ocassionally smelly and a little dirty, but therein lies the charm. Seriously! So Mumbai, I'm sorry. I take it all back.
From the airport, I take a prepaid taxi to Fort, where my hostel is, which costs Rs 590 (about 6 pounds). Considering the trip takes 2 hours (allowing for the hectic, relentless traffic and the driver stopping to ask for directions a few times), I think this is a pretty good deal. It's evening time, and still pretty hot and humid, but it's not nearly as oppressive as I'd anticipated. I'm sweaty, but not shamefully so. By the time I arrive to the hostel, it's 9pm, and I can figure out if I am tired or not. In this situation, a beer is always useful, so I ditch my backpack and head to Cafe Universal at the end of the street, where I have a drink with a Xima and Shine, who are also staying in the hostel.
After a restless night of sleep (I guess it will take me a few days to readjust to the warm nights and constant noise), I get up the following morning and head on a tour of the slums with Xima. I'm not usually a fan of organised tours, but going with a local guide is pretty much the best way to the Dharavi slum. Since it's the 3rd largest in the world, going it alone more or less guarantees getting lost. So me, Xima an Austrian couple and our guide (who has lived in the slum all his life) head off in the morning, taking the local train to reach Dharavi.
I'm not quite sure what I expected really, but it certainly wasn't what we saw there. The word slum conjures images of desolation, poverty and misery - the type of living reminisecent of a tear-jerker Oxfam advert. But Dharavi (where Slumdog Millionnaire was filmed), is anything but. It's progressive, home to multitude of booming industries and has every type of amenity imaginable - clinics, banks, shops, restaurants, schools. There are even private schools there!
Spread across about 550 acres, Dharavi is a cramped, ramshackle affair, connected by claustrophobic, labyrinthine alleyways, patches of wasteground and busy roads. It is densely populated (potentially housing up to 1 million) and the toilet facilities are communal, with thousands sharing the scarce bathrooms. Under the patch-work concrete streets there are sewage channels, full to the brim (by the end of the day I completely regret wearng flipflops; my feet are definitely toxic!). Huge mounds of rubbish dominate areas of wasteland, and despite the stench and abundance of flies, they provide recreational space for the local kids.
On of the most incredible aspects of slum-life is the sheer level of industry that exists. Huge scale operations are in place - from soap-making to leather manufacturing and plastic recycling to food production - the slum really does it all. It is organised, efficient and lucrative, and most importantly, provides a steady source of income for thousands of people. Behind tiny, curtained doors down a dark, quiet alleyways, it is likely that there is a factory of some sort, where people work round the clock.
Probably the most 'admirable' aspect of the slum (I mean that in the least patronising way possible), is the fact that everyone and everyhthing there co-exists, seemingly hassle free. Rats, chickens, goats, stray dogs and skinny flea-ridden cats wander around, seemingly in harmony with the people living there- a diverse mix of Hindus, Muslims, Christians, Gujaratis, businessmen, Rajasthanis, ...the list goes on. The slums seems to be a very inclusive place, and there is a tangible sense of community. People seem happy. The children are content. This is large-scale communal living that really really works.
Mid afternoon, we leave the slum and head back to Fort. It's getting a bit hot and uncomfortable, so me and Xima head to a local cafeteria for lunch - rice, chapatis and various unidentified sauces and dips, washed down with hot, sweet chai. At about 50p, its pretty much ideal. By the time we're finished, it's ideal walking temperature again, so we wander down to the Gateway of Mumbai, probably one of the most tourist-oriented parts of town. It's extremely busy, and we are constantly surrounded by peple asking for photos, so after 10 minutes of duly obliging, we abandon ship and instead head for spacious avenue of Marine Drive for sunset, where we sit on the wall by the sea, people-watching and chatting. It's a breezy night, and ideal for taking in all the sights, sounds and smells of Mumbai. Chai-sellers stroll past (purposefully shouting "chai, chai, chai"), the relentless sound of car horns soon becomes a comforting, background noise and every so often, the smell of incense, or spices (or piss, unfortunately!) will catch my attention.
It's been a beautiful reintroduction to Mumbai, but already I am craving a little peace, so tomorrow night it's off to Goa on the night train. A few days on the beach sounds pretty good right now...
MUMBAI
WHERE TO STAY: Traveller's Inn, Fort. Dorm rooms from Rs 500 per night. Still the best deal in Mumbai, by a mile. Friendly, helpful staff, clean, spacious rooms and an excellent location. Only 10 minutes walk to Mumbai CST (train station).
SLUM TOUR: We paid Rs 650 for a half day with Mystical Mumbai. Highly recommended!
WHERE TO EAT: Every 2nd building is a restaurant, canteen or cafeteria. Food is super-cheap here, so try to avoid the tourist trap places/chain restaurants, where prices can be double or triple. Curry dishes from 50p upwards, chai for about 5p, chapatis for about 7p. Bottled water about 20p.
GETTING AROUND: The local train network is cheap and efficient, if a little crowded. You have a matter of seconds to exit the train when it stops, so be fast! Tickets fom Rs 20. Taxis are widely availble, and prices are negotiable!
Train to Goa is a sleeper train. Try to book in advance to avoid waiting lists. Journey time is around 10 hours, and I paid Rs 341 for a Sleeper seat (around 3 pounds 50).
There are banks, ATM's kiosks and chemists in abundance in Mumbai, selling everything imaginable. I stocked up on sleeping pills for the train. 10 diazepam for Rs 100 (1 pound).
(Unfortunately, I dont seem to be able to upload pictures just now...am working on it but dont hold your breath!)
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