Well, amazingly, we do! So after an even worse sleep (with every exhalation I am convinced my bed is going to collapse...), we head back to our original hostel, tails firmly between legs. The grass isn't always greener and all that.... In spite of tiredness, I manage to successfully complete my week-long yoga classes, and definitely feel better for it. Although there are ladies in the class who must be at least 70 who are putting me to shame. Mind you, there's definitely something more-than-a-bit disturbing about seeing a spandex-clad septuagenarian easing in to the splits!
And if you thought a week of yoga was just too much fun, we managed to pack a lot more excitement in to Antigua, using it as a "base" for further afield adventures. One afternoon, we explore the next village round the other side of the volcano. Another, a group of us head to San Lorenzo El Tejar hot springs, a short chicken bus ride away. It might be broad daylight and close by to the city, but (as standard) we've been told to travel in a group and not to stay after 5pm, in case of armed robberies. Either that or bring machetes. (Seriously - the guide book suggests we invest in some hardcore ammo!)
On Thursdays, a market runs at Chichicastenanago, a town a few hours away by chicken bus, so me and Sylvia decide to brave the erratic driving and INSANE roads and head to the market. It's definitely time to shop! The market itself is pretty good, and I manage to pick up a few bargains (a hammock for a tenner...? Yes please!), but definitely the most interesting part was the journey back. When thick black smoke started billowing out from under the bus. Even-less reassuring was when all the locals could do was laugh. We clearly missed the punchline to this joke, but luckily made it back to Antigua unscathed and in a post-market glow, delighted with our new purchases.
Before I leave for my next (and final) stop in Guatemala, me, Sylvia, Melvin, Sofia, Olivier, and Meghan (the same group that went to the hot springs together) decide to climb Volcan Pacaya, which overlooks Guate city. It's actually one of the easier hikes, and we're up and back down in a few hours. And as an added bonus, at the top we stop off and toast marshamallows on the hot earth. The volcano only erupted a few years ago (eeek), but the views form the top are incredible and well worth the park entrance and guide fee. In fact, this is probably one of my favourite days in Antigua, as we finish off the day with a nice meal and a chilled game of cards and a few wines (rock and roll!).
The following day, I have to say my farewells to the others - they are heading to Lago d'Atitlan, and I'm off to Semuc Champey, which boasts natural limestone bridges and tiered turquoise-water lagoons and pools. I'm gutted to be saying my goodbyes already, especially to Sylvia, who I've spent the past 2 weeks with. But we part safe in the knowledge that I'm Holland-bound as soon as possible :-) Luckily though, I ahve managed to secure a pretty cheap deal to get to Semuc - the 7 hour journey there, including 2 nights accommodation is just under $20. Ok, so the accommodation is an "eco-lodge" (usually code for "shit-hole"), but I'm not planning on spending too much time indoors, so the standard doesn't really phase me. It is pretty remote though, so as a bit of forward-planning, I stock up on food before we set off so that I don't have to eat in the hostel's over-priced restaurant while I'm there. This would seem like the logical thing to do...
But it isn't. Oh no. We arrive around midnight, and my bed is essentially a mattress in the floor of an attic, which is fine. But the place is home to a few cats, so I'm awoken around 3 am but one of the little fuckers munching its way through every morsel of food I've brought. Bread, tomatoes, cheese - everything. So that's that plan scuppered then!
The following day, despite a wet and rainy start (it's very humid here, and prone to hot, wet showers), me Yuri (a Japanese girl) and Caspar (a Scottish guy - really! in remote Guatemala!) all head down the winding dirt track to Semuc. And we are absolutely not disappointed. It's an absolutely stunning example of natural beauty - rockpools, waterfalls, and limestone ridges, set among dense and beautiful forest and misty hills. Truly breathtaking and well worth the effort to get there.
After a bit of swimming and a hike up to the mirador, we leave Semuc (buying some locally made chocolate from a little girl on the way) and head back to the hostel. Luckily, the only thing the cat didn't touch was my wine. Well, since we are in the middle of nowhere...
I leave Semuc a couple of days later, after having explored the nearby town of Lanquin. It's back to Antigua for a night, before I take my flight out of Guatemala city to Los Angeles. Very much excited for a change of scenery. And of course, some cleb-spotting in Hollywood...
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