Fall asleep for the first couple of hours of the journey, and wake up when I am joined in my carriage by a Dutch couple, Reuben and Aisha, who are also interrailing. We spend the next few hours chatting and looking out the beautiful Croatian countryside, and with nowhere to stay that night, they decide to come with me to a hostel that I have an address for, in the hope that there is space for all of us.
After a ridiculous number of passport checks, we eventually arrive in Zagreb around 7pm. It's an absolutely beautiful setting; a very picturesque town with steep mountains in the background. One of the first things that is apparent to us is just how may police there are on the streets here. There a literally coach-loads of police everywhere we look....turns out there is a Papal Mass on in Zagreb at 7.30 that night and the city is packed with "pilgrims", police, and of course, ignorant people like myself who has no idea that the Pope is in town.
After a bit of wandering, we arrive at the Hobo Bear Hostel, which luckily has enough space to squeeze us all in. I've no Croatian money (the exchanges are all closed because of the papal mass) but the lady in reception is lovely and says I can pay her tomorrow when they reopen. This does sadly mean no beer tonight though. Small sacrifice.
I'm given a pokey little room, shared with a group of middle-aged male German bikers (dear god, what have I done to deserve this!), but am so tired and emotional that I really don't care. After a very long shower, I climb in to bed and watch an amazing sky-splitting lighting storm from the window. It looks incredible, and there is something particularly poignant/eerie about it, considering the mass has not long finished.
Unsurprisingly, I get to sleep pretty quick, and don't waken again until after midday. Epic sleep is just what I needed.
Hopefully my quest to exchange money here will be more fruitful today...
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